Totally Czeched In!

Update

2007-03-30T09:35:00.000-07:00

I check this blog every so often, and I am surprised to see that people are still reading it!! Happily surprised! ( BUT WHERE ARE THE COMMENTS, PEOPLE??) So I thought the least I could do is go back and fix the typos that had gone undetected--or just plain uncorrected. So I think I have done that now. I hope I didn't miss any.

As it turns out, my Czech story is not quite over yet. I am going back to CZ in June. It was quite unexpected, even by me. I hadn't planned on going anywhere this summer, and had no plans to return to CZ for AT LEAST two years at the very earliest--and that was a vague plan at most.

Anyway, I guess I have learned that NONE of us really knows what the future holds or what changes await us around every corner. And I must say, THAT is often what makes life interesting and exciting. Anyway, I may possibly start blogging here again when I am back in CZ.

In the mean time, if you are interested, you can check out my new West Coast blog at:

www.pacificdaylighttime.blogspot.com

I have been a bit lax for a while, but I am making up for it this week and next week, and then I plan to keep it up more frequently. It hasn't been exactly what I originally planned to do, but I still like it. Hope you will too. And please, make comments! =)

--KM

Goodbye to CZ--Homeward Bound

2006-09-03T12:38:00.002-07:00

So...the exchange is over.

Big thanks to Ondra K., Alena B., Irena B., Andrea S., Irena Harajdova, and Jurai Harajda for all your care and help. What would I have done without you? =) In your own special way, each of you helped me to survive there.

Even though I am already home and have been for some time now (more than 2 months), I don't really know quite what to say to end this blog and close the door on the year I spent in CZ.

What I know is that the experience was difficult on me in personal ways I never would have imagined--and will probably NEVER duplicate in my life. Yet in some ways it was very easy as well. I knew I would not be homesick--and I was not. It was very easy for me to be away from home, but I gained an even greater appreciation for my home country, state, and city all at the same time! Weird, isn't it? I could have stayed away even longer (I would have moved to Spain or Italy in a heartbeat), but I was more and more deeply aware of, and grateful for, all the things that make The Americas, The US, and California so special and so spectacular.

I also know that even though the year is over, my experience of that year will be with me for a long time to come. Who knows how long I will be contemplating the events of the year and their significance for me? Probably a long time. I have been through a lot. While reflecting on the past is valuable, what is most important is to LEARN from the past, put what you have learned into action, and let it move you forward in life. I am probably not exactly the same person I was before I left home, and those are the things I will be discovering, thinking about, and acting on for a long time to come.

I am the kind of person who is always thinking--WHAT'S NEXT??? That part of me hasn't changed. =) I know now, from experience, that I can be away from home a long time and be well, and I may do something like this again. I am already thinking of a summer program in Vietnam for next year!

I know that, although I love my friends and family, there is no better person to rely on than myself. I am the only one who can make my life just what I want it to be. I am the only one who knows what will truly make me happy. I will always do what I have to to make my life what I want it to be--not what well-meaming others want me to want, but what I truly want. If I let other people make LIFE decisions for me, I would be half-living. I want to LIVE--100%. Whatever people may say about me, they will never say that I didn't go after life--and what I wanted in life--with everything I had in me.

--KM

". . .the source of man's rights is not divine law or congressional law, but the law of identity. A is A—and Man is Man. Rights are conditions of existence required by man's nature for his proper survival. If man is to live on earth, it is right for him to use his mind, it is right to act on his own free judgment, it is right to work for his values and to keep the product of his work. If life on earth is his purpose, he has a right to live as a rational being: nature forbids him the irrational."

["This Is John Galt Speaking," Atlas Shrugged, 976.]

"Man's rights can be violated only by the use of physical force. It is only by means of physical force that one man can deprive another of his life, or enslave him, or rob him, or prevent him from pursuing his own goals, or compel him to act against his own rational judgment."
["The Nature of Government," The Virtue of Selfishness, 126.]

Krakow

2006-09-03T12:38:00.001-07:00

Krakow--a lovely and quiet little town. I found it charming, and after a day of walking around death camps, charming was just what the doctor ordered. Jirka had never been to Poland in all his years, so he was glad to escort me when he found out I really wanted to go there before I headed home to America.

Now, we didn't read up on anything here in Krakow, so we don't know why, but the dragon is a big deal around here. This statue actually breathes fire on occasion, and every knick-knack stand around sells various dragon items.

Krakow Castle--from another view.

Bend in the river. I imagine it as a nice place for outdoor concerts if they could set it up technically.

Tweedle Dee and Tweedle Dum at Krakow Castle. In case you haven't noticed, ALL of the pictures so far are taken around the area of the castle. =)

Now, this is NOT the castle. This is the main square.

I couldn't resist the Jewish Ghetto. These two are of the cemetery--very different from the one in Prague!

Many people donated money to commemorate Holocaust Victims with plaques that hang in the entry to the Old Jewish Cemetery in Krakow. Some sad stories there.

Jirka enjoyed our trip to Poland and is thinking of making it again with his mother, so he can show her what we saw here. Interesting.

KM

Auschwitz

2006-09-03T12:38:00.000-07:00

After visiting Terezin and feeling the air of heaviness there, I was worried about what it would be like at Auschwitz. The first thing we noticed here was that it was so NOT depressing-looking at all. So, at first, we thought we were in the wrong place, despite the big Museum Auschwitz sign out front.

Work makes you free. Yeah, I guess the Nazis were nothing if not consistent.

This is Auschwitz 1, and it looks very much like what it was before the Germans invaded Poland--an army barracks. This was one of the reasons Jirka and I didn't find it that grim-looking. It was the KNOWING what happened here (and there was plenty posted material to inform us) that makes it a heavy place, not the look of the place itself.

AUSCHWITZ II-BIRKENAU

Auschwitz II was a different story entirely.

This may sound crazy, but part of the reason this place was so horrific (much more so than Auschwitz I) was that it was not converted, but BUILT, CREATED to serve as a place of extermination of people. The layout, design, size and sheer efficiency of this place all contribute to the sense of dreadfulness here. It is all the things (and brings up all the feelings) that you would expect when viewing a Death Camp.

This is a distant view of what was called The Gate of Death (or Death Gate?).I remember seeing the train scenes in movies like Schindler's List. People were brought through in droves and most people were executed immediately after arrival. Four huge gas chambers and crematoriums were set up for this purpose. The few "lucky" ones were sent to work (and starve and be tortured and catch diseases) in the buildings erected to house prisoners.

Most of the buildings that were here were destroyed (by retreating Nazis). Chimneys and foundations remain.

One of the original buildings. About 45 of 300 still remain.

Ruin of a dynamited crematorium and gas chamber. The Nazis seemed to really think they'd be able to hide what they had done here.

Nectiny and Pilsen

2006-09-03T12:37:00.002-07:00

NECTINY

Jirka and I did so much more than just exchange jobs for the year. We really exchanged lives.

Would we have gone so in-depth with different exchange partners? Hard to say.

Was it FATE that put US together? WHO can say?

But in keeping with the rest of the year, Jirka felt the need to show me some parts of his pre-exchange life that I had yet to see. This beautiful castle is where he has his summer English camp. He had hoped that I would stick around and teach English at the camp this year, but I had to go home before the camp started, so he drove me up to have a look at it. It is one of--if not THE number one-- his favorite places. I think anyone can see why. =)

We took a little hike around the grounds, and ended up on a hill overlooking the castle. The hill was the site of the original castle back-in-the-day, before the "new" one was built.

PILSEN

That same day, Jiri took me to Pilsen so I could see where he went to University and honed his MAD English skills. =) He seemed to be disappointed with Pilsen and said something about it not being as nice as he remembered it, but I thought it was fine--even though he really thinks I didn't like it. We didn't stay long though. He seemed ready to move on, so we did.

Terezin

2006-09-03T12:37:00.001-07:00

I had heard a lot about Terezin when I took a tour of the Jewish Quarter in Prague. Supposedly, it was the Nazis' PR camp, and it had better conditions than the other camps. There were arts and theater programs, and perhaps a little more food.

But when I walked through these gates and saw the place, the cells, the crematorium, the execution sites, I found it to be very depressing. If this was among the best they could offer, I could not imagine what it would be like when I visited one of the more horrifying camps, which I planned to do before I left Europe.

The lie posted in every camp: "Work makes you free."

THE TRUTH... The site of mass graves.

Site of the firing squad.

NO PHOTOS PLEASE. I believe I can say with authority that Jirka felt pretty depressed here too.

Bodies recovered form the mass gravesite were reburied here with a little more dignity.

Back to CZ--Maurice and Alicia

2006-09-03T12:37:00.000-07:00

Maurice and Me

The day after Jiri and I returned to CZ from New York, my very good friend, Maurice, came to visit from London. The day after that, Alicia, a new teacher at Birmingham and friend of Jirka's came to visit also. Although Alicia worked at my LA school, I had never met her because she started with Jirka during the year I was away.

It was like another kind of magic the way we all got along so well and such a great time together. Jirka and I spent four days touring around CZ with Maurice and Alicia, and we had a great time. Because Maurice and Alicia's days were staggered, we ended up making it to Prague, Karlovy Vary, and Marianske Lazne only, but we got a LOT out of the visits! We all had a FANTASTIC time together.

Jiri and Alicia

Here, we were in a very expensive pizzeria in Karlovy Vary.

Jirka was pretty disappointed with the weather on this day, but the rest of us considered it part of the adventure. Clouds and rain COULD NOT obscure the beauty of the town, Jirka, so no worries. We all got it!

Tasting the waters...and chewing the fat. =)

Nice building. I didn't see this area the last time I was here.

Fortunately, the weather in Prague was much nicer on the day we went there.

Art in Prague--Just as there were displays of sculpture last summer when I visited Prague, there are displays this year as well--and equally...creative too. =)

Prague IS Art--Beautiful buildings abound in this city.

Male bonding.

All of us at Prague Castle. Lovely day overall.

KM

Niagara Falls, USA

2006-07-31T00:39:00.000-07:00

I think this picture looks like a fake, as if I did some funny stuff to it on the computer, but it is just a normal photo.

After a week in New York and New Jersey, Jiri and I drove across the entire state of New York to Niagara Falls. It took a bit longer than we expected, but it was still a pleasant drive. Jiri did all the driving and I got to look around a lot. =) Perfect. We got turned around only twice, and only one of them was my fault (silly me thought to get from Newark to East Newark would mean going...East), so I didn't let him down as the navigator. =)

We stopped along the way and ended up buying tickets for a tour of the falls area--Good call! It really hit all the high points of the things we needed to see there. AND we drove through a MONSTER storm (HEAVY rain, thunder, lightning--the works!), but we were undaunted. Jirka just pushed on like a trooper, and I was busy trying to capture the lightning in a photo. Not easy to do since you can't know where it will be or when. Even when I used the video feature, I got nothing. You will have to take my word for it when I tell you it was spectacular.

AND SO WERE THE FALLS!

American falls

Horseshoe in the mist

American Falls w/elevator

BRAVE OR INSANE...

These pictures are from the Daredevils Museum, where they keep the...let's say "instruments" that people have used to go over the falls. Some survived, some did not. If you look carefully at the photo of the jetski, you can see the last photo taken of the guy who used the jetski to go over the falls--AS he was going over the falls, with the intention of parachuting to the bottom. Due to drafts and such created by the powerful waterfall, the chute didn't open, and that was the end of him.

We heard a story about a little boy who went over the falls with nothing but a lifejacket--and Survived! Some pretty amazing things have happened there, but not as many as you'd think. I guess people aren't so crazy after all. But did you know that the FIRST person to ever attempt to go over (in a barrel) was a SCHOOLTEACHER??!! In her 60's!! But I guess I can understand how she might be a little crazy. =)

They say she was trying to earn money for her retirement from speaking engagements after the drop. Although she did survive, she didn't really earn anything to help her into a comfy retirement. Too bad. =(

OUR LAST ADVENTURE...

Jiri and I didn't try to go over the falls, but we did walk under them. This platform is built under Bridal Veil (part of the American Falls) every year. During the winter, there is A LOT of ice here, which ruins the wooden structure, so now they dismantle it and rebuild it each year. Walking underneath Bridal Veil is out of this world. You don't get the full flow or full force of the fall, but what you do get is enough for pure exhilaration!! What fun!!! A truly unique life-experience. =)

We survived. Don't we look whipped?! =) (Actually this was taken before we went under teh falls, but...)

KM

New York, New York--Finally!

2006-07-31T00:38:00.000-07:00

"Start spreadin' the news..."

I finally made it to New York City!! I have been to so many places in the world, it was starting to become ridiculous that I had yet to see NYC...

In comes Jiri. Mr. Shy and Unassertive--Mr. Timid Mc Passive-- comes up with the GREAT IDEA: "Why don't we meet in New York before I leave the US?" Of course he was not that direct. He had to beat around the bush, telling me a story about his plane ticket and how he could change it for another city...blah blah blah...and it all become clear. New York City, here I (we) come!!!!

Seriously, it was really a fantastic trip. I don't know if we were JUST lucky or if there was some magic in the Fulbright match-making bag (at least for our exchange), but I cannot imagine another person in CZ or in any of the other participating countries that I would have gotten along with better than my partner. Not only were you the perfect partner for me, but you are truly an awesome fella, Jirka--even if you do need a BIG, healthy dose of assertiveness. Haha =). I am not kidding, though, (about any of what I say here. Do I ever really say things I don't mean?? Don't think so.=))

Anyway, back to the trip! It seems Jiri is all grown up now! He spent four whole days alone in LA, before coming to meet me at NYC's JFK. All I had to do was get off my plane and wait. Cool! Then the adventures began. (You can read about the taxi ride on Jiri's blog.)

Since neither of us had been to New York before, neither of us could assume the role of tourguide (something we both like to do, albeit ONE of us more than the other. =) Guess Who?) Each day, we had to work together (and lead each other) to plan whatever we would do and see. We got along extremely well (not unusual for us), and managed to see just about everything we wanted (except a Broadway show) without a single FIGHT! Pretty amazing.

Overall, we had a very calm and casual way of exploring THE CITY. A perfect first bite of the Big Apple!

So...WHAT DID WE SEE??

Boat and skyline--beautiful view. On our way to Liberty and Ellis Islands.

Trump Tower--I HAD to go here. I am a little Donald-Trump-crazy right now. I had just been reading his book Think Like a Billionaire on my way to New York, and in it, he says if you are in New York you MUST see Trump Tower. So I (we)did. It was alright. =)

Check me out.

Ellis island--we were hoping to find some evidence of the passage of Jiri's Great-Grandfather here. His grandfather was actually BORN here, in Pittsburg, PA. But we took the tour first, and by the time we got to search computers, we had run out of time. Bummer.

Empire State lobby. Gorgeous, really.

World sculpture near USTC--Jiri and I both are IN LOVE with tennis, we had to go to the site of the US Open. Unfortunately it was not open to the public on that day, so all we could do was to walk around--ALL the way around; it's HUGE and the stadiums are enormous!-- and take pictures of whatever we could see. It was still nice to be there though. (And that's 3 of 4 for me. The only Grand Slam venue I haven't visited is Melbourne Park.)

From Liberty Island--WOW! Spectacular view.

PORT MONMOUTH, NJ

Srdjan and Sasha (and Apollo) were kind enough to host us on our first visit to THE CITY. We camped out across the...river?? Bay?? Delta?? Strip of sea??...from NYC in their little piece of New Jersey. AND without ruining the suspense, I can tell you it was the nicest of the three places we stayed during the whole trip.

ON THE JERSEY SHORE...

...WHERE WE DISCOVERED A FEW NEW SEA CREATURES (FOR US).

THE POOL area was quite lovely and enjoyable. I think it was Jirka's favorite spot. He loved Srdjan's place and the pool and the weightroom. I think he was in his own heaven here. =)

One of our MUST SEE spots was the site of the WTC. Even not having been to NYC before, it was still strange not to see the twin towers in the skyline, and when we got close to the site (ground zero), it still had a solemn feel about it, but...

There was also the positive feeling connected to rebuilding, to not letting destructive, death-worshipping individuals have the final word--or act.

To the future...

Srdjan--OUR HERO. Thanks a bunch Srdjy!! Hope to see you again soon out on the West Coast.

KM

Nancy comes to Central Europe:Prague, Budapest, Vienna (and of course Zatec=))

2006-07-31T00:37:00.000-07:00

Now, THESE are a little mixed up! Nancy came through in the summer and we had a mini-tour of Central Europe. We started in Zatec, of course. Spent an evening doing what we do best--eating, drinking, and being merry! The next morning we were off! We cruised through Prague, Budapest, and Vienna, before she went on to Italy and I went to NYC. We had a groovy visit, as you can see.

Wine-tasting and making friends in Budapest (a city we both loved).

Our hotel was right on this river (a little body of water called The Danube; maybe you've heard of it?) =)

Lovely funicular. I believe it was mentioned--noticeably--in Prague, a novel about North American expats living in Budapest.

The Hungarians seem to be a pretty fierce and determined people (historically). It was refreshing. It gave the city a certain air of...I don't know exactly...a jazz...an energy. I could really picture a people fighting to be independent of conquerors century after century. Independence had a lot of meaning here.

At the Kafka Museum in Prague.

At a fortress in Budapest

Budapest

Prague--Charles Bridge

Statue at Prague Castle

Budapest

Vienna

Vienna--Statue of Mozart. Cool deal with the flowers.

Budapest--can you see why they call it The Queen of the Danube?? I CAN!

Zatec--beginning of the trip, end of the photos. =)

-KM

Istanbul-Where East Meets West

2006-07-04T12:50:00.000-07:00

Blue Mosque

Istanbul was a fantastic city. I called it "a place of imposing structures." Everything here is extra-large and extra-magnificent.

Charles lives here, and it was good to visit with him. I am glad I wasn't here completely on my own. It might have been a bit overwhelming. He was waiting in my hotel when I arrived and started giving me the low-down on layout, getting around, and the must-see spots. Thanks, Charles.

Here I am at the market with Oguz, Charles' man. He was very cool. I am glad I met him. He's a doll, really. This market was pretty unbelievable. All the colors and choices and fresh things. It was bustling with excitement--as a place dedicated to food should be!! =)

These two pictures are taken from the roof of my hotel. One of the noticeable and groovy features of Istanbul are the terraces on practically every building. I realize that, like most features, they probably sprung up out of necessity more than anything else(they are often the best place to catch a breeze in the sometimes stifling heat), they are still awesome.

I stayed in Sultanahmet (Old Istanbul), and this was the view of the Blue Mosque from my hotel terrace. I wasn't very far from the Sultan's palace, and while I did walk right on the grounds around and below it, I did NOT see it. Bummer. I may have to go back someday.

Ayah Sophia (above) and Blue Mosque (below), as beautiful at night as they are in daylight. Nights were warm-- just the way I like them.

Cistern signs--Well, you can read all about the cistern for yourself here. You'll see that the picture from inside didn't come out nearly as well as the picture of the signs, but I felt compelled to include it. It is pretty amazing that it is still there and still working.

There is a looooottt of water around Istanbul...

...So I couldn't spend four days there without getting out on it. As Charles and I cruised up the ...horn??...we passed, among many things, this swimming pool structure built right in the middle of the water. Amazing. And actually a good idea because you definitely wouldn't want to go right into the water--though some DO.

From the ferry...

ON the ferry...

(I liked this picture =))

--KM

"July 4th" Celebrating American Independence Day

2006-06-29T09:16:00.000-07:00

So I went to an official function at the US Ambassador's Residence--Again...

And I met the President of the Czech Republic--Again

I also met the US Ambassador to CZ for the second time.

There was fanfare...

And nice speeches...(CZ values its friendship with the US...The US if very happy to be partners with CZ...lots of love and warmth)

And there was SPECTACULAR food. YES!!!

And some American icons...

This was my first clue that it was going to be a bigger deal than I had thought. There was a huge line outside with some very official-looking people.

And a security check. We didn't have THAT the first time I came to visit the residence.

Radek S. and Jan B--interesting Czech people. Fascinating stories.

Cabell, The Virginian. Funny guy. He was an intern at the Fulbright office in Prague while he was on summer break from school. I wish I had known about things like that when I was in school, but I can't complain--or waste time looking back and kicking myself. I did my best for then, and I think I do juuuuust fine now. It's now and tomorrow that counts anyway. =)

--KM

Dublin--Gotta love the Irish!

2006-06-25T14:32:00.000-07:00

Don't Worry
There are only two things to worry about: either you are well or you are sick. If you are well then there's nothing to worry about. If you are sick then there are only two things to worry about: Either you will get well or you will die. If you get well then there's nothing to worry about. If you die, then there are only two things to worry about: You will either go to heaven or to hell. If you go to heaven then there's nothing to worry about. If you go to hell, you will be so busy shaking hands with all your friends that there will be nothing to worry about!

There is definitely a carefree feeling in Dublin. I don't remember the last time I was around such friendly, open people. I am positive I will return to Ireland!! I want to see a lot more of it.

A pub, capitalizing on the atmosphere and reputation of the entire Temple Bar area.

Temple Bar is a live, happening place in Dublin! Full of Pubs, people, music, life.

Sean and his comical uncle (Chris? John?). Very nice people. Very fun people.

The River Liffey

TRINITY COLLEGE--I was very curious about seeing the place where so many famous Irish Writers studied. I walked through thinking of Jonathan Swift and Oscar Wilde, in particular. And while I enjoyed a very spirited (and thankfully brief) tour, I have to admit that I was disappointed in the lack of information about the famous attendees. I saw the Book of Kells, but it didn't really excite me that much.

Trinty too

Writers Museum

Now THIS was a treat. A very interesting display and non-redundant audio tour, arranged by period and writer. I learned a lot of fascinating things about the featured writers (Yeats, Beckett, Wilde, etc.). I am glad I made it there. Before I left, I felt obliged to buy a book by one of the Irish writers, so I looked around and came away with...Bram Stoker's DRACULA. It was a good read. I liked it a lot despite some of its irritating conventions.

Writers' Museum window--INSIDE the building, by the way. The house used to belong to someone interesting, whom I have already forgotten about. A lot of time and events have passed since I was there--sorry.

James Joyce's House. Didn't go there. Maybe next time. Would like to see what they do on Bloomsday.

The tour that wasn't. I really really wanted to take this Ghostbus tour, but I failed to plan it properly, and I missed the cut-off time for buying tickets in advance. When I got to the bus, the tour was already sold out =(. I did a ghost tour in Virgina with my mom, but it was a walking tour. I imagined that the stories in Ireland would be much more interesting--and maybe about some of the writers I like. Oh, well, another reason to go back.

Arched entryway to St. Stephens Green. I didn't really go inside, but I walked by A LOT of times. It would be a cool place to hang and have a good talk, I think. It is very close to a great place to go shopping too, so it could be a rest stop for sure.

Molly Malone. I don't know if I have ever heard the song or not, but she is a famous character from a well-known Irish song. Art and life--characters are sometimes as real as actual people, and as loved.

A modern sculpture! Reminds me of Roger Rabbit, for some reason. =)

And my hotel room--my LOVEly hotel room. If it had been a bit quieter in the hallways, it would have been perfect. I was so excited sometimes just to sit in my room and watch TV--in ENGLISH!! Bless the Irish!

In addition to the guys I met in the pub, I also met Aoife--a super-nice Irish girl. We met up for lunch and chatted like pals. Overall, I was very impressed by the people I met in Dublin.

For so many reasons, I was thankful for the Irish on that weekend!

How I Met the President of the Czech Republic

2006-06-18T02:56:00.000-07:00

A short story by Kylowna Moton

We stopped by his house. He was there.

The End

Lany

2006-06-18T02:45:00.000-07:00

Lany

On our way to Karlstejn, the Harajdas and I stopped in Lany to see the grave of Masaryk, the first president of Czechoslovakia.

Graves of the Masaryk family.

I wasn't thrilled about looking at a gravesite, but afterward, we went to the President's Weekend/vacation home (like our Camp David, I believe), which was also in Lany, and had a brief look around. The grounds were quite impressive. There was a large park--very large--and greenhouses, and the general atmosphere was very tranquil. It was really beautiful.

We even managed to see the end of the changing of the guards at the gate to the residence. I swear, they must pick only the most handsome soldiers for this duty because every single one of them was VERY good-looking, not to mention polite. The guard on duty even smiled at me! I didn't think they were allowed to do that.

Mrs. Harajdova and I had a little rest outside of the greenhouses. The Presidential residence is in the background.

Guard--serious, but friendly and helpful too. Look at the land in the background.

We saw many of the robes (gifts) that the President was given during some of his diplomatic travels. They were in glass cases, and the light in that room made them difficult to photograph, but here is one.

Karlstejn

2006-06-18T02:31:00.000-07:00

I was told that this was the most important castle in CZ after the gorgeous Prague castle in...well...Prague. So I stayed in the country for a weekend and took a day trip with the Harajdas--my family here in CZ. =) It is nice for me when I spend time with them, so I really looked forward to our trip. The above picture is a lovely view of the castle.

When I got up close, I was surprised it wasn't better taken care of, better restored since it is supposed to be so important to the country. I guess they are working on it.

The other thing that surprised me was the lack of interesting exhibits on the inside. We took a tour, but we were not allowed to take photos. There were some paintings of Charles IV' s family, some pieces of furniture, a couple of rooms were set up "as used in the time of..." but the main draw seemed to be that Charles IV built it and lived here, held reign here, had his four women here...I guess if you really idealize him, it could be interesting to see where he lived. A beautiful crown was on display in a glass case, but Mr. Harajda said it was a replica.

A couple of people in period costume were waiting in one room to sing a song. Well, a guy played a guitar-type instrument and a girl (with a great voice) sang an old style song. Which got me to thinking...wouldn't it be fantastic if there were people in period costume in every room, re-enacting life as it was lived there AND they did the talking instead of a tourguide???? It would be awesome--and not just in this place. Many places could benefit from such a thing. I am thinking of places like the ghost towns of the Old West of the USA for starters--or anywhere there are tours of buildings that are no longer used as what they were intended. Hmmmm...

I agreed to go on the Czech tour because I was the only one of my party who would have needed the English tour, and it was 90 crowns more expensive for English. I didn't mind it because I find that tourguides rarely say anything I actually care about anyway. I usually spend my time day-dreaming. =)

But the thing that killed me about this tour was that every time we went into a room, the tourguide locked us in! It was like I was in Jail--or HELL! She stood there holding the ring of keys until she finished giving her (Czech) speech and then she would unlock the next door, escort us into a new room, and LOCK us in there too! Some of these rooms were way too small for our group. It was grating on my nerves! I got more and more antsy as we progressed to each new room. I would look at each room for about 1-2 minutes and I'd be ready to move on--but I couldn't! And I so hate feeling trapped, confined, restricted in my movement. I am a butterfly, and butterflies are free. =) Anyway, the tour was scheduled for 50 minutes, and by the last room (when we were at 54 minutes), I was begging (inside my head) to be released, "please, someone, let me out of heeeeere..." Then finally, it was over! I can't remember when I have been so happy to get out of a place.

All thanks to Mr. and Mrs. Harajda, though. I appreciate their kindness and interest in wanting to go somewhere with me and show me something. It meant a lot to me. =)

KM

Beer Tasting

2006-06-15T13:46:00.000-07:00

Exterior of Hops Institute

Many months ago, I was invited to dinner with Marta and some of her English students from the Hops company. We had a nice time, and they also invited me to come for a beer tasting at the Hops Institute when the time came. Well, the time came!

MY HOSTS:

Mr. Urban

Dasa: I don't remember her last name, but she is super nice. It was great to see both of them again. We had a good time talking together, and I learned a great deal about beer and hops! I will be some kind of expert when I get home. =)

Zatec Drawing--an early layout of the town.

This is the world's smallest brewery, located in the Hops Institute. They brew beer to test the different hops they breed and cross-breed. Interesting.

Hops, malt, and hop pellets

This wasn't just sitting around drinking beer. It was a bonafide business meeting, and I felt privileged to be invited. There were lectures on different hops issues (not in English) and issues related to beer production and consumption, like health benefits of drinking beer and overuse of alcohol (especially among youth). Germans, apparently, drink the most beer (not the Czechs, as my students say--although maybe they mean per capita and this was overall??) and the Belgians produce the most beer, followed by the USA. Who Knew?? Belgium! Makers of my Hoegaarten. =)

Beer. When tasting, we had to rate which ones we liked best in three categories. Overall flavor, enjoyment of bitterness, and after taste were the categories. Then in the second round, there were two of three that were the same, and we had to see if we could tell the difference. I could! But mostly because of the smell.

When I was in Amsterdam last weekend, I saw one of these on the move in the street. I thought it was pretty cool, but I was too slow to get a picture of it. Imagine my surprise when I saw one here at the Hops Institute! I was told that they saw one on the internet, and then built one of their own. And I got to ride on it. Seats were hard! But it was fun.

The pedals...

Driver

The pivo

Joe Cool--check out his nifty vest. It has Hops symbols on it. I really liked it. I can't remember exactly, but there are some special clubs and organizations around beer and hops...Oh! There was a fake article written many years ago as an April Fools joke for the newspaper, but it was printed late (after April 1st), and it said archaeologists had discovered the very first beer drinker, blah blah blah. Well, people believed it. And now, for fun, there is a society dedicated to this first beer drinker. I can't remember his name, but it's pretty funny and they too have uniforms and everything.

It was a nice day, and afterward, I was off to school for afternoon lessons and then to Prague to see Beth and Rigoletto. Busy day!

KM

Opera Wrap up

2006-06-15T13:36:00.000-07:00

Even after my week of music...even after my musical experience in Brussels, came the long-awaited JUNE 8TH...

June 8th was the Marriage of Figaro--the one I was looking forward to the most, and the music was NOT disappointing. Brilliant music! Happy Music! I really loved it. I am debating (and will be for some time, I think) whether Figaro or Carmen had the best music overall...

So, Beth left CZ for good today. She spent the last of her time in Prague, and I went to meet her yesterday and see her off. I got us tickets to see Rigoletto. Why not an opera for the last night in Prague? I chose box seats this time, and they were THE coolest!

Rigoletto was my 7th opera of the year, and now I feel I am qualified to give an opinion on the genre--my impressions...

To make a long story short, Opera is just plain weird. Strange characters behaving strangely (inhumanly) for strange "reasons," or even worse--NO REASONS WHATSOEVER!

Many, many people keep telling me that you don't go to the Opera for story--just to hear the beautiful music, the beautiful singing. And yes, the thought did occur to me too as I was watching (with furrowed brow) The Magic Flute, but...

I am a literature person, and English teacher, and a would-be writer. I NEED story! Not only do I need story, but I need stories to BE stories, to make sense as stories. Beginning, middle, end; reasonable motivation; action that follows to its logical conclusion--or at least humanly understandable conclusion. If you set it up, pay it off. It's a common courtesy to the reader/listener/AUDIENCE. Geez! The problem with characters behaving in ways that are not reasonable or set up to justify their being unreasonable is that there no suspension of disbelief in the shows. If the story isn't important or it isn't supposed to be followed, etc., then why not just have a concert? Just sing the songs and play the music. Are people still writing operas?? Or am I just beating a dead horse here?

Anyway, here are my "official" reviews:

THE BARTERED BRIDE--Smetana; Czech Opera, comedy: My first real Opera ever. Pretty good. Am surprised, though, by the ordinary content of such lofty, artsy singing; "we are happy and carefree because we drink beer. Beer takes away our problems." OK. Some of the action is a little far-fetched, but it's OK; it's a comedy! 4 stars*

THE MAGIC FLUTE--Mozart; Performed in Czech; Great music (obviously): COMPLETELY WHACKED STORY LINE. Builds toward an ending that never materializes. Conflict is resolved without being RESOLVED. It just ends--happily ever after??? Yeah! 3 stars

CARMEN--Bizet; French Opera (performed by Czechs about a Gypsy girl in Spain) Cool, I like the multi-national element. OUTSTANDING MUSIC. Story: not bad. Characters are understandable to an extent. People might behave this way, although some are a bit obsessive, but so are real people. 4 stars

DON GIOVANNI--Mozart; Italian opera; Music is good; Story set-up is not bad; Characters: hmmm. I have trouble suspending that disbelief when a girl is enticed to possibly run away with another man--a man she just met--ON HER WEDDING DAY! The wronged husband never does a thing about it except whine. Another lover swears revenge (to his love) for the killing of his love's father, but also NEVER DOES ANYTHING. He's worse than Hamlet! But in the end, Don Giovanni (Don Juan) the "lover"/seducer/rapist, who does nothing be wreak havoc in other people's lives, goes straight to hell, so I guess there's a moral and a conclusion. And everyone lives happily afterward?? 3 1/2 stars

AIDA--Verdi; Italian Opera (set in Egypt); Great Music; The set was magnificent. I was sucked in from the first opening of the curtain. The ending is sad, but it makes sense. Story is well-structured. An Egyptian military commander falls in love with an Ethiopian Princess who has been made into a slave in Egypt. She loves him too, but they both have trouble deciding between loyalty to homeland or loyalty to each other and to love. Because they can't sort THAT out and make a clear decision, it ends in tragedy. But it is understandable. It's not that problems can't be solved, but people sometimes don't do what is really needed in order to solve them. Stunning performance. 5 stars!!

THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO--Mozart; Italian Opera; OUTSTANDING MUSIC!! Cheerful and uplifting music; Nice set; Comedy--and actually funny! I laughed out loud (and not just ME =)); Because it's a comedy, the plot is a little twisted and crazy, and it's... OK. Excellent performers. 4 1/2 stars...or 5??? hmmmm...

RIGOLETTO--Verdi; Italian Opera; Beautiful music, WONDERFUL singers; Story: well, it was the first time I HAD to go and buy the program to figure out what exactly was going on. Beth and I both were getting confused, so we bought a program at the first intermission so we could check what we THOUGHT was happening against what we were supposed to think was happening. Another skirt-chasing man (a la Don Giovanni) trying to seduce every girl he could get his hands on. He meets a girl whose father was trying to hide her from the world (and men like him, but the father happened to work for this man and HELP in his seducing of OTHER people's daughters) and falls in love for the first time in his life. This "love" lasts all of five minutes, or at least until he is able to "dishonor" her too. All kind of havoc is wreaked in her life and, although he seduced, ruined, and abandoned her ( all the while singing about how WOMEN are fickle and can't be trusted, etc.), she dies to save him from an assassin her father hired because SHE STILL LOVED HIM. Yeah. Ended abruptly. 3 1/2 Stars

Well, that's all for me.

KM

*Ratings range from 1-5 stars, with 5 being best.

Somebody visited Amsterdam...

2006-06-11T13:38:00.000-07:00

I say "somebody" because I am not sure at all it was ME. It's a good thing I don't do drugs because, for some reason, I was already so out-of-focus that I would have forgotten my head if it wasn't attached!! Forgot my hotel confirmation; didn't know when my return flight was; forgot my Servas letter...But remember, I went to Prague on Thursday to see Marriage of Figaro, and I didn't come back to Zatec before Amsterdam. I KNEW I was doing this, but somehow my brain couldn't handle it. I'd been really distracted.

Luckily I met really nice people. Well, I met A really nice person, Roeland (of Servas); he is the one taking my picture here. Despite his busy schedule, he showed me around, went to dinner with me, and was just very nice to talk to. I forgot (in TWO meetings) to take a picture WITH him. =(

After some initial trepidation, I strolled the Red Light District. It was very nice. Nothing to be worried about after all: "chips, dip, chains, whips, sex, drugs, rock and roll--the usual stuff." They (sex and drugs) are business all over the world. Here, it's just open. No pretending. I am not saying I like prostitution and drugs. No, no, it's definitely NOT for me, but it somehow wasn't weird to see it out in the open like it was here. It could be just the atmosphere of this place. I wouldn't suggest everyone legalize the things. Somehow, I feel it only really works...HERE.

Marijuana cookies

Having dinner, and chillin' when suddenly a waiter lights this big torch thing and plops it down on my table. Nobody else had a torch; they all had regular little tea lights. I was...perplexed, but then I kind of liked it and went with it. Que Sera Sera.

Rijks Museum--didn't go in there. I think it was closed for renovation anyway.

Rembrant house--he actually lived here, folks, in the green shuttered building. 1606??? Didn't go in there either.

Van Gogh--DID go in here! But wasn't allowed to take ANY photos. =( I could take them in Paris, why not here??? Beats me.

Anne Frank House--Also went in here! Also, no photos allowed. But it was brilliant. I had been in the play Anne Frank (as Mrs. Frank) when I was in high school, and so it was something kind of personal for me. It was so amazing to see the ACTUAL place. It was vivid--I could feel it. When I read about the fate of all the inhabitants (which I already knew, of course) it was like reading about people I knew, my friends. They did a really good job with the displays here, I have to say. The video clips of interviews, the photos showing the people and the rooms...Excellent.

AROUND TOWN...

Museum shop

Central Station

Lovers--As we waited and waited for the Canal Bus that never came...

These guys showed up instead

NIGHT VIEWS...

Do I have to say Amsterdam is beautiful? Do I have to say I would love to go back there again? I hope not. =)

I stayed here--Nice hotel, excellent service, expensive breakfast, but it's OK--I skipped it! =)

Trains--the thing about my hotel was that it was not actually IN Amsterdam. It was in a city by the airport. No problem. There was a train station just a short walk from the hotel. No big deal getting into the city. However, on my last night, I stayed in Amsterdam late. There is limited train service after 10pm. I was to take the train to the airport and then take a taxi to my hotel from there...except I fell asleep on the train, woke up at my stop but too late to get the doors to open and let me out. I had to go to another town (it was the Rotterdam train, so I was lucky it didn't go THAT far) and take a taxi back to my hotel. A very expensive adventure!!!

Airport survival kit--I arrived early, too early to check in, and there were no restaurants outside the gate area in THIS airport. A very nice airport though. It is about...here that I realize I left my leather jacket in the closet of the hotel. I don't know who this new, forgetful person is (who is inhabiting my body), but I hope she doesn't stay much longer. =)

Oktava School Leaving Party

2006-06-07T01:04:00.000-07:00

When the graduating classes finish their exams, they have a school-leaving party at the school. I missed the Year 4 party =( because I was it was on a Saturday, and I was in Prague with Michael, but Oktava had their party on a Tuesday, so I made it. Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera. The battery was near dead, and I didn't plan accordingly, so there was no time to charge it.

All that said, it was a really good time. I know it is June, but they built a fire (and btw, it was cold out, so we needed it to keep warm!), and there was food and drinks, singing along with a guitar, and much lively conversation. I really, really enjoyed myself with them.

It is the times like this that make teaching most interesting. I really like seeing who my students are outside of class--as regular people, and if I wasn't a teacher, I wouldn't have the opportunity. I have to admit that Oktava was NOT my favorite class at times. However, they are interesting and pleasant people. I had many warm feelings about them during their party, and I think I will miss them a lot. I wish them all the best of luck, and I hope they will keep in touch.

KM

Brussels

2006-06-05T02:13:00.000-07:00

The music continues...

Old England is the site of Brussels' Museum of Musical Instruments. A very clever idea, nicely carried out.

When you pay your entrance fee, you get a set of these nifty headphones. Then there are different levels to the museum; for example, the first floor (second floor for Americans) is dedicated to folk instruments from around the world. I saw some of the instruments I played when I was in Japanese Gagaku Ensemble at UCLA! Very cool... but the coolest thing is that when you walk close to the instruments the music of that particular instrument automatically begins to play in the headphones. You had to stand in certain spots to get it really clear of static, but it was still really great.

Piano--the second floor (3rd in USA) was a display of Western instruments; the next floor was strings and keys (piano type things).

Some of the exhibited items are probably priceless, one-of-a kind items, like this piano--a real work of art. And apparently needing two people to play it??

I don't know...Accordion?? Harpsichord? It's beautiful either way.

REALLY gorgeous guitars!! Made me want to go to Spain or something--right away!

On the top floor of the building is a restaurant where I was able to give the headphones a rest...

have a lovely meal....

and enjoy this view. =) Hmmmm...

When I first arrived, I knew right away I had picked a good hotel. The right one for me and my tastes anyway. =)

And this is my neighborhood (around the corner).

Notre Dame-like Cathedral. It's right next to the square, above.

Another cathedral I saw as I toured around the city.

Pissing boy

Pissing girl

What's the obsession with the peeing??? Something to do with all the beer they make in Belgium?? But that's not for little boys and girls, so...anyway, everybody comes to have a look at these statues--including me!

Delirium Tremors--a pub with 2500 different beers!! They don't always have them all (difficult logistics) but they promise to always--ALWAYS-- have at least 2004 beers available. I had one. One glass of one beer; it was an apple one. I meant to try a chocolate one, but I forgot, paid for my beer, and left. Oh well, maybe next time. Something to save for later--chocolate beer!!

Atomium--built for a World Expo and left afterward, mush like the Eiffel Tower in Paris.

The Y shirt--THIS was pretty cool. One of the Servas members I met in Brussels is a fashion designer. I passed by her shop as I was out walking and met her. Aleksandra. She's originally from Poland, but Brussels is now her home. Anyway, she designed a new kind of shirt. Instead of a T-Shirt, it is a Y-Shirt. It's a happy t-shirt, arms up in celebration and triumph. This particular package contains a shirt for a mother and a child ( a girl, I suppose?). It is a celebration of solo parenting. She got the idea--the inspiration--when thinking about all of her friends who divorced. Why, she wondered, is a divorce not an occasion as well as a wedding (or a birthday, etc.)? Why do people go through divorce alone? With a little attitude shift, it could be an occasion for gathering as well as anything else--or even an occasion for celebrating. In any case, it is nothing shameful that has to be "suffered" through alone. At the very least, people probably need the support. I like people who think "outside the box." It was a nifty idea. I bought myself a shirt--just a grownup one. They come individually as well. =)

Europarl--In case you didn't know, Brussels is the "capital" of Europe. It's the headquarters of the European Union (EU). This is the EU Parliament building.

A sign in a window. There are a lot of cool EU signs around Brussels. I believe they are very proud to be the home of the EU. Go Brussels!

Comic statue. OK, so I decided to go and visit the Comic Museum, and I was looking at the map, trying to figure out which street to turn on. HERE was this big statue of a cartoon-type figure. Do you think I turned here??? Noooooooo. Did I see it as a clue??? Noooooo. I swear! I had the hardest time with the map in Brussels! I got turned around (temporarily) more times than I EVER have in ANY city. I really don't get it. But anyway I made it to the museum...Apparently, Belgium is a comic leader in the world.

Did you know that the Smurfs are a Belgian creation?

And Tintin? I must admit that i don't know much about Tintin. I had heard of it, but never read it or watched it really. It was kind of hard for me to "get into" this museum. I have never read more than a few comic books in my life. Have always preferred regular books, I guess. And inside...since it is in Belgium...it's all in French or Dutch (Flemish). I couldn't read anything. And would I have if I could have?? They gave me some kind of book...I don't remember what was in it. =)

But they had some nice ice cream in the cafeteria! =)

Fountain man. Some people say Brussels is boring, but it could be that they are projecting. I found the center to be bustling with energy--as much as any other city I have visited in Europe (except maybe London). It was cute, charming. The beer is flowing, the food is good...if you go with some fun friends, I don't see why you couldn't have a blast here. It was somewhat daunting to be doing everything on my own, but that's the same everywhere. I quite liked Brussels. I would come again.

KM

Michael

2006-06-05T02:12:00.000-07:00

Michael came to visit me in Zatec for a day! It was really great to have him here. Did me a world of good. Here he is at the gate in Zatec.

While taking a walking tour of the town, we ran into Ondra and Honza. Honza invited us to a BBQ at his house. Very nice of him to do so, and he even made sure there was something vegetarian for Michael to eat. =)

Michael and Radek

Getting it all on film

Michael's Mom--Before our journey to Zatec, I went to Prague to meet up with Michael and his parents. He was finishing up his year as a Fulbrighter in Slovakia, and his parents came to visit him and do a little traveling. In Prague (the end of their trip), we did some walking, dinner, etc. It was very nice to meet them. Then, on Sunday evening, while they were off to see Rigoletto, Michael and I took the bus for Zatec.

At a cafe by the Astronomical Clock

The clock in action.

A crowd of people gathered and waited up to 45 minutes to see the little doors open and the 12 Apostles make an appearance at the windows as Death rang the bells marking the hours. Yes, forty-five minutes...in the rain.

So anyway, Michael is one of the Slovakian Fulbrighters I managed to become good friends with (and visited so often). I am sure we will all be in touch as the years pass. There was really some kind of special bonding there. I will see Charles in a couple of weeks in Turkey (where he lives) and Srdjan in July in New York (New Jersey) where he lives. I am very glad that we all met.

Week of Music

2006-06-02T01:37:00.000-07:00

Well, this week (May 27-June 1) was filled with live music for me! It stared on Saturday night when I went to dinner with Michael and his parents in Prague. I took them to my favorite restaurant (Hot, on Wenceslas Square) and although I have seen the piano there a number of times, Saturday was the first time (or second??) I actually heard someone playing and singing on it. Very nice to have the music and a nice dinner. A good time was had by all.

Then on Monday, I went to The Estates Theater to see Mozart's Don Giovanni. It was great for me because this was THE theater for which Mozart wrote Don Giovanni!! I just sat there and imagined Mozart conducting the Opera there (again). Wow.

On Wednesday, there was a jazz concert in Louny. Two of my students (Klara and Hanka) invited me to go with them and another friend. It was kind of a girls night out. The concert took place in a room of the Louny Divadlo (theater), which was a very nice building. What I mean is that it looked rather newish; the style seemed plain--in a modern way, not a grand architectural type. Anyway, the music was quite excellent. I enjoyed it very much. It was entirely instrumental, so I had a chance to think my own thoughts...to ponder the universe and my place in it...and just generally reflect. I do a lot of that sort of thing. =0

Thursday began with a morning assembly in the Zatec Divadlo for awarding school certificates to the students who finished Gymnazium this year (MY students). So we watched while the underclassmen put on various entertainment pieces for the graduating students. It was a treat, and some of the kids really were talented--others were at least very funny. Jane, one of my 14 year-old kids played the piano beautifully, and Michaela, who is maybe 15 or 16, sang in a surprising and impressive style!

Thursday continued and was a splendid evening for music. Mrs Harajdova and I went to see Aida at the National Theater in Prague! Awesome production. The set design and staging was truly magnificent. It was my favorite of them all. I had not yet seen The Marriage of Figaro, but was duly impressed by Aida.

The sunset outside the National Theater

Mr. Harajda waited for us at a cafe/restaurant across the street, and when we went over to join him for some hot chocolate, there was even more live music inside the place. It just never stops in Prague! Indeed, music--good, live music is one of the things I looked forward to when I knew I would be so close to Prague, and I must say that I have not been disappointed.

KM

Dresden

2006-05-23T11:50:00.000-07:00

On the Sunday of my weekend in Decin, Milca arranged for a local German teacher to accompany us on a day trip to Dresden. We took a morning train, after we picked up Hana, and it was a real pleasure to spend the day with her! We were buddies within an hour. =) Milca hadn't met her in person before that day, but I would never have guessed that either. At 78, she was so vivacious, energetic and outgoing--and, incidentally, she had PERFECT legs! I was so amazed by her legs; they were strong, pretty with niiiice ankles. No old lady ankles for her. Outstanding!

While in Dresden (a darling city, by the way), she was so friendly with...well...everybody. She touched people and talked to any and everyone one on the streets. The first time she started talking to people in town, I thought she knew them, but NO! They weren't friends; she was just super sociable. I loved it. I hope I am like her when I am nearing my eighties!!

This is Hana. She found a history/reference book on Dresden (in German) and prepared some translations of background information for me, which she shared while we rode the train into Germany.

Horses--When I left the train station, I noticed them right away, and they turned out to be all over town. Pretty.

After my visit to Berlin, seeing the Ampelmann paintings on this bench was like running into an old friend. =)

I don't know the exact nature of all the buildings here, but there are many churches, not surprising for a European city--but what IS surprising is that they are actually used! Most of the churches I see in Europe have a museum-like quality about them, but the churches in Dresden were working churches. Hmmmm.

One thing I learned about Dresden was that one of the kings (or emperors??) was very much taken by the architecture he saw on his many travels to Italy (his favorite place to travel), and so he had it imitated in the buildings he had erected in Dresden. He particularly liked the buildings on Venice.

Another thing I learned about Dresden...well, if you look at any of the souvenir stands around town, you can't help but seeing photo postcards depicting the state of Dresden after some SERIOUS WWII bombings. Dresden was DEVASTATED. From the photos I saw, it doesn't seem that any building was left untouched. And when they were "touched" they were left with only a shell of the building or maybe parts of some walls--and only that. They were reduced to rubble. So what I learned was that the buildings here are rebuilt using some stones that were salvageable form the original structures, complemented by a whole lot of new stones. That is why the buildings are part black and part tan. The original stones are burned and charred; the new ones are clean and tan.

Theater--also completely rebuilt.

Me and Hana

Lovely fountain in the palace courtyard, where a well-known gallery is housed. Don't remember the name of it. I had never heard of it before. We saw a lot of paintings. A loootttt of paintings. Yeah.

On this terrace (both under the trees and beyond), there is much activity. The terrace is actually part of the old city wall, and there are live musicians, artisans, and just people strolling--it's a very nice place for a stroll.

Musicians in costume. Funny.

Indians?? I don't know how THEY came to be in Dresden!

Again, a nice open feel. I like airy places.

Here's is Hana again--up close and personal in everything she does. Gotta love it!

The train ride to and fro was very scenic: lovely river, rocks, and hamlets. We stopped to make a connection in one picturesque village. Much better than waiting in the big train station in Dresden. All in all, it was a fantastic day. I was glad to visit Germany again: seeing beautiful things, a lot of activity, the buzz. I liked Dresden a lot! Thanks again, Milca. You are a very good lady. =)

Decin

2006-05-23T11:49:00.000-07:00

Bridge

Milca is a new Fulbrighter who will be going to the USA this summer for a year. She invited me to visit her in her home town of Decin, which is right near the border with Germany. It was a relaxing yet activity-packed weekend. I am quite amazed when I think about all the things we managed to do in two days. I am thinking back on it because it was weeks ago already! I haven't managed to sit down and write about it because...well, I have been on the go! I take off for new territories each weekend, and we also have had some things going on at school her in Zatec to keep me occupied. And...sometimes...I just get tired. Writing takes energy, you know? =)

Anyway, I had passed through Decin on the train when I went to Berlin, and I thought it was really beautifully laid out. I started looking forward to my visit with Milca a lot.

Mr. Harajda drove me so that i wouldn't have to take the trains. VERY nice of him! I think he likes driving me around. =) This is what waited for me when I got there.

Because it was a festival weekend for the town, there was a parade and fireworks show on Saturday night.

Cottage door

Ever since I have been in CZ, I have been hearing about the cottages. People leave their towns and cites in droves most every weekend to go to their family cottages. I saw one up close when I visited Jan Mach in East Bohemia, but this weekend I actually stayed in one. It's much like when people in California go to a cabin in Big Bear for the weekend. Sort of. I know Milca thought I was freaked out by the rustic nature of the place, but really I wasn't. I was just soaking it in. It was very quiet and there was a dense woods nearby on a hillside. An old church--I am not sure it was still in use. Milca and her husband, Jirka, really enjoy going there and sitting in the yard and looking at the trees and the church. For me, it was a nice weekend, and now I can say I HAVE EXPERIENCED THE COTTAGE. =)

Here it is--from the side

From the front

View of church

cottage yard

Cottage neighbors

Birthday Party--One of Milca's English-teaching colleagues had a birthday party during the weekend, so we took a very lovely drive over to the village (?) she lived in to stop in for a while. It was quite festive and the people were nice there.

On the way to the party, we drove through these beautiful country roads, and who would have guessed that after we arrived at the celebration there would be a GIGANTIC thunderstorm?! And I DO mean Gigantic! It seemed to come out of nowhere--the heavy downpour and the winds! Whoa! The road back to the cottage was littered with tree parts and a couple of trees too. Driving back was slow and careful, and when we got there, there was no electricity. So our second night at the cottage was candlelit. Very romantic, and a perfect atmosphere for a cottage night, I say. =)

Milca's mom--one of the many stops we made during the Friday and Saturday. One of the many meals!! Because everyone was so hospitable and kind, there was just about a TON of food for me to eat--all day long. I wasn't used to eating so much, but it was quite lovely.

Dinner made by Milca's mother--a VERY sweet lady!

In addition to the pizzeria, the parade, the fireworks, the birthday party, the cottage, and the castle fair, the televised hockey match in the pub, Milca's parents, and her in-laws, we also visited a friend who has his own make-shift wine cellar! I had a private tasting (with Milca and her husband). It was groovy!

Thanks, Milca! It really was a special weekend.

But this was only Friday afternoon and Saturday, folks. On Sunday, we went across the border. . .

Paris--Third Slice =)

2006-05-17T07:50:00.000-07:00

An new View of an oldie

My third visit to Paris was all about seeing it in a different way. I feel I was very successful in meeting this goal!

Scouts on the move in the Metro! The kids were moving and so was I, so sorry for the blurry photos. I need to practice taking pictures of moving objects. These are ALMOST cool photos. I must be more intentional.

Photo Shoot--while cruising on the Seine (a first-time experience--finally) we passed this fashion shoot. Tres Paris, non? (I don't know how to do accents here.)

An American Pub/Restaurant--"I get my kicks on Route 66!"

NIGHTLIFE...Paris has it! I had never gotten a real feel for what people did in Paris after dark. Now I see that, not unlike London, there ARE happening places where people congregate for fun and frolicking. Very cool. Very energetic.

--Mouftard

--Bastille

And, because I am a Servas member, I had the chance to contact and meet some real French people!!! This is Katia and her friend, Joanne. The man is David; we went to grad school together in LA. He is living in Paris right now, but plans to move back to California really soon.

Deep in conversation

Gerard and his friend...

I want to call him Fabrice, but I don't think that was it. Anyway, they were nice French guys...Had to talk to them as I was practically sitting at their table to avoid cigarette smoke. Thanks for taking our picture.

I also finally made it INSIDE the Musee D'Orsay! It was a veeery quick visit, I assure you. Actually, this time I wouldn't have minded a little more time inside, but the museum was closing. We chose to come later rather than wait in long lines--and rain. When we finally got there, the workers took us from the end of the line and let us go in first--through a side entrance. Random...but these kinds of things tend to happen to me. Lucky sometimes, I guess.

Orsay Clock

VanGogh--I really dig his work. I can't explain why exactly, but I do. There's something about the sheer amount of paint on the canvas and how each brush stroke is visible in it. I can almost imagine him painting! I will see the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam when I go there, I am sure.

THIS is the puzzle under my bed in LA!!

And Monet...

Wouldn't mind seeing his digs in Giverny some day...

And THIS ("I just like my haystacks") was in the Thomas Crown Affair--one of my ABSOLUTE favorite movies!! Come to think of it, I think the first painting was in the movie too.

Paris Art

This was something unique. Belleville is an area where A LOT of artists live, and every year (I am told), they open the doors of their apartments/studios for the public. I picked the lucky weekend! So we got a map (anyone could) and roamed the area visiting the artists homes and looked at their work. It was very well organized. There was a place right out of the metro station to pick up a map. And in that place, there was a big book of photographic samples of the artwork, so we could mark on our maps the places we were actually interested in seeing--because of the style of art. It's a good thing because there were maybe 150 places--or more--SPREAD OUT, and it would have been a lot of walking for random viewing!

If I had any money (and a place to display art), I would have bought some things. I started imagining a new dream job...where someone who actually HAD a lot of money would let ME go buy art! That would be fun for a while--a good while. =) I was just as interested, if not more, in seeing the insides of the apartments and such. It is one thing I always wanted to do in Paris. I have always been very curious about what the apartments are like. The last time I was here, I wondered aloud to my friend, Nancy, what would happen if I just started ringing doorbells and asked to see apartments. I didn't try it, and THIS--open invitation--was way better!

I didn't actually take any pictures of the art I saw =(. I wasn't sure if it would be OK, and I didn't bother asking. I didn't want to appear as a horrible tourist (not here anyway=)).

Some of the artist actually provided food--and wine. Nice! In this particular place, there were several art studios combined in one warehouse type of area. Good food too.

Street art--I felt OK about photographing this. =) I wonder if any of the artists would have LIKED having pictures of their stuff on the internet. I probably missed the boat on that one.

Stairs--One artist displayed in her apartment on the 6th floor! No elevator, of course. There was a group of older people inside the building when I got there, and when they saw where the studio was, they opted out of seeing that artist. I did not.

Gritty--or "colorful" area here. All kinds of people, all kinds of smells!

I hear that artist have subsidized housing in Paris. Imagine! And also, I am sure you can imagine what the area is like too. Full of...all forms of inspiration.

Paris Sewers--You get what you pay for!

Victor Hugo's version

The price for the sewer tour was only 4 Euro. In a city where hot chocolate is 5 or 6 Euro, that should have told us something. Actually it did, but we went anyway. I don't really recommend it, unless you are REALLY interested in how sewers work, or when Paris drinking water stopped being taken from the Seine. It is dank and bare. Some parts have grated floors where a river of dirty water gushes. Creeped me out. And yes, there is a smell although, admittedly, it is NOT nearly as bad as it could be. There is a tour, but we chose not to take it (in French anyway). The saving grace is that it is small. It doesn't take very long to get through the whole place. Still, I was very happy to get out.

ROLAND GARROS--Now THIS was worth the price of admission!!!

Note:I actually paid nothing to go in, as we couldn't go very far... it's just a figure of speech, folks.

If you know me even a little bit, you know how I love tennis. Remember the visit to Wimbledon in October that caused me to miss my flight back to CZ??? Yeah. Here I was at another Grand Slam venue. Sweet! But because the tournament was less than two weeks away, I could not have an official tour. No matter. It was still pretty nice to walk around the less restricted parts to look and imagine. My friend, David, later fished out a picture he took of (guess who) Venus Williams playing there in a previous year. Cool. I have it beside my computer right now. =)

Courts covered in anticipation and preparation. Hmmm...

Like a kid in a candy store

Red Clay on my hand

When? Oh, when????? Well, I know when I will see Flushing Meadows, but what about Melbourne Park? And what about actually seeing some TENNIS in these places???? I'll put it on the list! Things to figure out when I come home...=)

OLD FAVORITES-but seen from a different angle, at least.

Notre Dame

Eiffel

This trip was just what I wanted it to be. I was very satisfied, overall.

KM

Goodbye to Year 4

2006-05-17T07:49:00.001-07:00

Year 4--Left to right: Lukas, Lenka, Klara, Eva, Vit, Honza (Jan), and Daniel =)

It was the last day of classes for them. Then they were to go off for a week and study (wink wink) for school leaving exams. So when I came to meet them, they said, "It's our last class, can we meet in the pub??" Why not? Have to take the opportunity of doing the things you just CANNOT do at home, I suppose. Besides, they were one of my FAVORITE classes, and I will miss them. There are really a terrific group of kids--pleasant, polite, no excuses. Just nice!

I gave them some parting gifts (UCLA pencils and stickers) for good luck too. After school leaving exams, they will have to take college entrance exams as well. Yikes!

Then they showed me some of teh things they had made to put up at school for their final Friday (the next day) where they all dress up in some costumes (theirs were hippies and flower children) and haze the younger students a bit (nothing dangerous) and collect money for their going away party. I was really bummed that I didn't bring my camera to school that day. I had packed all my stuff for my trip to Paris, and it was in a bag. =(

BUT I did take pictures of the "decorations" they made for the school, poking a little fun at the teachers. =)

Maria

Alena and Jirka

Yours truly

Irena

Jirka again

Me again

Goodbye, and Good Luck, Year 4. Feel free to email me from time to time.

KM

Lubljana, Slovenia

2006-05-17T07:49:00.000-07:00

On May 5-8, I met up with the boys in Slovakia again. It was great to see them! Charles, Michael, and I trained it down to Slovenia early on Saturday morning. But first, on the Friday, I was in Bratislava where I saw Srdjan and Mike L., who were supposed to come to Slovenia with us, but had more pressing issues and technical difficulties which prevented them. While in Blava, I also saw Marc, Emma, and Calla as we ALL met up for dinner at the great Indian Restaurant I mentioned on my first trip to Bratislava. Ummmm. =)

Big "party" Friday night and then the three Muskateers headed off to Lubljana.

And I am starting to form the same impression of any and every major (or semi-major) Central European town:

CASTLE ON A HILL...

TOWN DOWN BELOW...

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT...

There are SQUARES...

The squares are NICE--often the nicest part of the town (See Banska Bystrica, March).

Events take place in the squares.

AND THERE ARE Churches...

So, when all the towns start to run together, at the very least in physical character, we have to start asking for--and seeking out-- the things that make one town special, unique. Well, we at least start to TRY. What I am really asking myself is why was Lubljana a good trip? And it was a good trip, despite Lubljana's not being strikingly different from other cities (dare I call it a city?) in Central Europe. I believe I know the answer, but first, let's look at Lubljana and how it does manage to put a twist on the Central European standard...Shall we?

University of Lubljana--probably the prettiest University building I have seen so far in Central Europe.

Fountain in from of UofL

River too
I am not going to claim that Lubljana is as exciting as, say, Berlin (or London or Paris), but it mananges to change things up a bit. On the first day we arrived there was a big open market in a square by the river.

Then...

At night, the bridge and many, many cafes and bars along the river are illuminated by street and candle light and become a beautiful place to chill with a beer or..whatever one fancies. On this particular weekend, we were able to sit and listen to the live music coming from the "event" at the square. Very nice.

Another type of River Experience...

I can't remember his name, but he was our waiter and seemed to develop a bit of a crush and eventually enough nerve to ask me out!! In the nicest possible way I could, I had to say no (in a way)--I invited him to join my friends and me in a gay bar. I didn't want to separate from them. I just didn't really see the point in going out (ALONE) with someone I would see for exactly one night of my life. He chickened out of the gay bar (--I think. I didn't exactly wait around for him to get there). Oh well! IIIIIII wasn't the one with the crush! He was nice though.

So we managed to put our own spin on Lubljana....

At the castle

Michael

Me

We heard there was a free-living, alternative lifestyle commune in town, so we had to go check it out. We missed the BIG night at the commune because we fell asleep, but it was worth a walk-through, even in the daylight. I was a little apprehensive about going into a "commune." I cannot say I have ever wanted to see the inside of one, but it was an experience. We really didn't see anybody, but we could see some of the things they had created there. Take a look.

The Commune--into art, maybe?

Michael kept singing the new Madonna song that was stuck in his head and soon to be stuck in mine as well.

We also heard about a Roman Wall, so we went down to have a look at it, and found this pyramid as well! It was a nice little find!

Charles and Pyramid

The river mutated yet again. The day before we left, it became a giant, snake-shaped flea market, with people selling all manner of things--even old, obsolete money! Here is an example of the merchandise:

I don't know what the asking price was. =)

So...how about SLO??? My random observations:

ONE thing I have to say is: being so close to Italy has done great things for Slovenia. We went to a Slovenian restaurant to have Typical Slovenian food...OUTSTANDING!!! With obvious Italian influence. My dish was a pasta with truffle sauce. Yum! I even had carpaccio! Yum yum. Polenta, and oh I don't remember the rest, but you get the picture. Good pizza too. More like New York than Italy.

After Lubljana (and Bratislava, incidentally) I feel I have made the circuit of gay clubs in central Europe (thanks guys)--well I have certainly seen all that Bratislva has to offer!! =) And now I feel qualified to say that...gay clubs...are... just as lame as straight clubs. Slovenia, despite its pro-gay graffiti (OH There is graffiti EVERYWHERE, not uncommon in Europe), which we noticed immediately upon entering the city, is no gay mecca. In LA, I used to feel that the people in West Hollywood were having more fun than we straight people were (and hell, maybe they are!), but after hanging with the boys in Slovakia (and now Slovenia), I can say (with some certainty) that it just ain't so! The grass is NOT greener. For all of you out there who were wondering...now you know.

If you're passing through--if you're in the area--I'd say go on and give Lubljana a day or two. Be warned though. The hotels are expensive. We got what we think was the least expensive hotel (Park Hotel)--a Soviet style panelac--with bare minimums, and it was 100 Euro per night. Granted it was a triple, with a small kitchen, and it had enough space for 3 people, but it was really nothing fancy. And I mean nothing. The TV didn't work, but normally I wouldn't have noticed that since I never turn on the TV on vacation. The furnishings were what you might expect at camp. Decor was from 60's? 70's?? But it was comfortable, nothing crawled on me, and there was plenty of hot water. They even brought us full-sized towels on the second day! =)

OVERALL, Lubljana was charming, quaint, sleepy--and Euro (Michael and Charles' observation). What is Euro? It's a certain sophistication that even some European towns don't have.

But to answer my own question, it was a good trip because I went with fun people. Let's face it--quaint, charming, and sleepy can easily drift right on into DULL if we aren't careful!! We can enjoy the features of a place, its sights, attractions, etc. We can feel satisfied; we can even like it and find it interesting, but to have a visit that is special and long lasting (in our hearts and minds), we have to be with the right people. People with whom you can develop a rhythm...people who know the importance of a NAP! Among other things. =)

This is no real SHOCKER here! People make the experience. Think about some of YOUR most memorable or beloved trips--a few hours at a groovy landmark, a one day jaunt to a tiny beach town, a weekend trip to the mountains, or a 10 day journey to world-class wherever. What will you remember most? What will make it stick? What will be the difference between a good trip and a spectacular one? The people, right? OK, the food is probably up there too, but come on! What turns plain sightseeing into a COMPLETE experience? It's who you do it with! It's the people.

KM

A slice of...

2006-05-04T22:11:00.000-07:00

I was very interested in going to Berlin. I really couldn't wait to see it. I had a weekend without travel plans or travel partners, so off I went! It was a great adventure.

MY FIRST SERVAS VISIT...

Me and my hosts

I belong to a group called Servas, an international network of hosts and travelers. Hosts, such Uwe and Grit here, offer accommodation in their homes to travelers, like me, for a short stay. It really is a great way to visit a new city. I liked getting to know a couple of real people who actually live in the city--someone besides hoteliers and waiters, that is. I got the chance to spend some time with them, visit their favorite cafe, go to the local outdoor market (a custom of theirs), and learn quite a few things about their lives. I was introduced to Sudoku puzzles, kefir (hope I spelled that right), and some good ideas for cooking and eating. They were largely vegetarians who made their own whole wheat bread--I had never seen some of the gadgets they had for handling whole grains. Fascinating.

Lars is another Servas host whom I contacted when I decided to go to Berlin, and he invited me to come to a birthday party he was giving for his girlfriend, Christine. I met some of their friends and family, and it was quite exciting to be doing such things in a city I had only entered the day before. Lars is a great guy, easy to talk to, and very knowledgeable. He had a great deal of information and insight about Berlin. On the day I left, he met me at the train station and took me on a walking/metro tour that was really quite enjoyable.

Me at the birthday party.

The Berlin Wall!

Here it is, folks, THE Berlin Wall!

These two pictures are of the first bit of it that I saw, as I was making my way from Potsdamer Platz to the Checkpoint Charlie Museum, and stupid me didn't even realize (for just a few moments) what I was seeing. Then all of a sudden--"Oh my God! Is that the WALL?" Another moment of doubt, and then, "Of course, it must, be, but it looks so....small." Somehow I wasn't expecting any of it to still be standing, even though I KNEW that there was some of it left (as there SHOULD be! It is an important part of world history). It was incredible to contemplate the significance of this "small" barrier and what it meant to so many people and the history of Berlin. Fascinating.

This is where I met Lars before my train departure. It is the longest part of The Wall still standing, and is also called the Eastside Gallery because of all the artists' paintings on it.

A little history...

A celebration of freedom. It is so hard to imagine all the people who died trying to get across The Wall--to escape from the East to the West. It is hard to imagine that they kept trying after so many had died before them. It's really a testament to the human spirit and its BASIC need for freedom.

Wall-line to Brandenburg Gate--the bricks in the road represent the place where The Wall used to stand. Just the day before I was riding in a car on this street with Uwe, wondering how on earth I would get this picture. I was imagining risking life and limb to get out in the middle of the street, but as luck would have it, I went back and--not only was it NOT raining--but the street was closed down in preparation for some celebration or demonstration. Much better than going out in the middle of traffic!

Wall-line to Chicago. Uwe, my Servas host, said this new area (Potsdamer Platz) was Berlin's small version of Chicago, and from then on I could only refer to it as such. =)

Brandenburg Gate again. And how many times have many of us seen pictures of the gate?? Even when the wall was still standing. I really found the landmarks of Berlin-- and the city itself, incredibly fascinating. Some say Berlin is not so interesting because so much of it was destroyed in WWII, but I say NO WAY! You don't need old buildings (and Berlin does have SOME) to feel the history of a place. And part of what is so fascinating about Berlin is its response to its history, the way it grows and changes--and continues to do so. It's ALIVE! I loved it.

Anyway, HISTORY can also be reflected and respected by new things. Here is an example of a fairly recent addition to the city which does just that.

Holocaust Memorial--At first I thought, "Is this it??" but then i really got into it. I found it visually stimulating (as you can see by all the pictures I took) and (though I know little about art) somehow appropriate to its purpose. It is a monument to all the European Jews killed in the Holocaust. You will notice that the structures are not all uniform. Some are small some are very tall, and they are built at differing angles, both at the sides and the tops. I thought that it said: although these people had a similar fate, although they were all thrown together and treated as ONE, they were all different; they were individuals; they had their own unique qualities and characteristics in themselves and their lives, and these mustn't be lost in/by the common and routine way in which they were destroyed.

Well...that is what it said to me. The artist could have had a different idea, but I didn't go inside the museum to read about it.

One of my ABsolute favorite pictures I have taken. Period.

INCREDIBLE!

Another bit of history...

Checkpoint Charlie--The crossing point between The East and the US sector of West Berlin.

Crossing Gate

I actually went inside the museum here--The Checkpoint Charlie Museum. Admittedly, it was just a walk-through--not a lot of reading, and I couldn't even bear to listen to too much of the audio-guide (I haven't changed that much!!=)). There was just sooooo much information there (visual, verbal, recorded...), that I found it overwhelming. I just couldn't take it--especially so late in the day. I had to just walk and look. Again, I was impressed by the people who risked their lives to make it beyond this gate. Many people succeeded (and I guess THAT is why so many people kept trying despite all of those who had failed). Inside the museum, there are cars and luggage and other things (probably re-created) in which people had built secret compartments to hide in, so that they could cross the border and escape from Communism. It is wild! I would like to go back there (when I am well-rested) and look more closely at the materials...One thing I did like was the model of The WALL, and how they kept making it thicker and harder to cross. I didn't take a picture though. I was unsure of when it was OK, and I probably wasn't even supposed to take THIS one!

Checkpoint Charlie By Day

Just imagine it...wow!! You made it, and...by the way...obey traffic rules??!! Is this SUPPOSED to be humorous??? Or is it just me??? =)

Souvenir shop. I bought nothing. =)

Closer to the center of town are many of these crosses, put up to remember some of the people who were killed while trying to escape to the West. Most of them were shot by the Eastern Guards (some drowned in the river--some of those, after being shot by Eastern Guards). Inside the Checkpoint Charlie Museum, there is a display which tells people to smile at the guards, and remember that they were human too: They didn't always shoot to kill. If they had, there would have been at least ten times more people who died trying to cross over into West Berlin. Hmmm..that's something to think about.

The funny thing about Checkpoint Charlie and all that, is that I didn't think I would be that interested in it, but it turned out to be a lot more meaningful to me than I had imagined.

Around town...Berlin NOW

Ampelmann--These are the coolest things! I am told that after Berlin (all of Germany, I guess=)) reunified, most all things "EASTERN" were being removed and replaced, and the people put up with it--except when it came to the pedestrian crossing lights. That's when they put their foot down and said, "Hey! Wait a minute!" They liked their crossing lights, and they wanted to keep them. Not everything form the East needed to go, they said. And, I (along with many tourists, and even West Berliners) am glad they did. They really are special. Now there are stores devoted to the sale of Ampelmann merchandise. That's the West for you. But I have to admit, I bought something!!!!

Cranes--I had to take a picture of these. One cannot talk about Berlin without mentioning the enormous amount of construction going on there. Everywhere building, changing, improving (?). Yes! It really is EVERYWHERE. I am told (and I can't imagine) that it was far far more of a construction zone about 10 years ago. It's exciting though. I think I could come back here in a year--or a month--and it will be a very different place.

The Berliners are gaining a reputation for self-re-invention. Even the guide books say Berlin is different every hour. It is NOT just the construction they are talking about. It's the vibe, the attitude. It is intentional; the people make it happen. A place has a different feel by day than by night; the activities change. It is definitely a "happening" town. It is in motion. And that makes Berlin an exciting place to live--and to visit.

Museum of Technology and Communication? Something like that. I was on my own that day, so I took pictures first and asked questions later. =)

Old Church--not as old as it seems, but it survived the WAR. There are things that are more than 50 years old here, you see?

Old Bridge--beautiful.

AND the NEW stuff--It ain't so bad!!!

I find the modern structures quite beautiful, really. Clean, open, light, airy. The roads were wide and freeing. I really felt I could breathe here. I will be back!!

KM

PS I kind of like Berlin. Could you tell???? =)

It's Spring for Sure!

2006-04-25T10:52:00.000-07:00

When I went away to LA, the weather got colder here (and warmer in LA, incidentally--coincidence? You be the judge =)), so my worries that the long-awaited Spring bloom would start here without me were ill-founded. Nothing changed here while I was away. I got a chance to see the buds open up around me. Some of the trees have yet to be roused from their slumber, but many plants and trees are awake and making for very pretty pictures.

I have some GREAT friends!

2006-04-20T17:15:00.000-07:00

DSCN3052.JPG
Originally uploaded by Travelinfool.

I have often thought that I have some of the best friends in the world, and I continue to think so. Here are two of them right here.

Thank you so much, Carye and Hugh for putting me up (last minute) on my last stay at home.

Thanks for the always open invitation to your couch and for always listening to my many crazy stories with patience and interest. You are the best.

Oh, and by the way, thanks for always being willing to make me tuna melts (and other Vogt delicacies).

Ky

9 Days Home--Sequoia

2006-04-18T17:23:00.000-07:00

GOING UP!

Welcome to the Sequoia National Park. It was an amazingly beautiful place. It was even nice to see it when it had not yet shaken off its winter coat. I have been through these parts before, but never to the top where the trees live. Incredible. The things you can see in just a few hours driving from LA! I love California!

Heading up, up, up to the giants.

Native American drawings??

This is what happens when you hand your camera over to strangers--or even to friends.

Jirka really loves this park, and I can't say that I blame him.

Lookout point

AT THE TOP

Useful log

Good thing I brought those snow boots from CZ!

Split trees

Sequoias through hole in bark

Me in front of cut tree--don't I look tiny?

Info

A view up the back of General Sherman

On the way to the museum

The Giant Forest Museum

COMING DOWN!

Yes! A real, live bear. Just hanging out on the side of the road like it's nothing. That was amazing. NATURE!

Around the hotel...

The pool was practically useless at this time of year, but NOT the jacuzzi--even in the rain!

9 Days Home--Calico

2006-04-18T17:22:00.002-07:00

On the way back from Las Vegas, we stopped in Calico, a California Ghost town. Ghost towns come in all kinds of conditions. Some can look like nothing more than a patch of earth. This one is nice and restored. It was great fun to walk around it and just...imagine the days when it was "modern--" if they ever used such a word in such a place. It's in the middle of nowhere now, I can't imagine it in 1881! Wow.

The Town--Beautiful, really.

Guns

Fire brigade

Wagon wheel

After working in the mines all day, I guess tired folk needed a little help getting clean--and were willing to pay for it.

Hmmm...perhaps he took a stray one in the last shoot out.

Undertakers

Saloon Folk

Teacher and naughty student.

GOD! ALL THE PEOPLE OF CALICO LOOK SO FAMILIAR!!!!

Cemetery--with some quite recent burials, I might add.

The important folks.

Look who's smiling!

Jirka's favorite tombstone.

Tree in forefront--I like it.

View of the California Desert from Calico.

9 Days Home--Nevada

2006-04-18T17:22:00.001-07:00

Arrived in LA on Friday night, took off for Vegas on Sunday morning. While in Vegas, we made a little side trip to Hoover Dam for the day--a couple of hours, really. There were a lot of people coming to see this wonderful creation, without which it may not have been possible to have so much life in the desert.

Someone is making me laugh. A regular joke a minute, it was that day.

Looking down, careful not to drop the camera. =)

The line between two states. As with all things, there have to be boundaries somewhere.

Adela is fascinated by this wonder of civil engineering, as you can see.

So the sign said...

But some of us...

Are a little bit hard-headed, it would seem. Or maybe we are just not very afraid of danger. =)

Mr. Jokes himself. Managing a laugh of his own as well.

9 Days Home--Ren Faire

2006-04-18T17:22:00.000-07:00

Front of Faire.

I have been coming to the Renaissance Faire every year for a few years now. I even went three times last year!! AND I have my own costume! It's a fun day of entertainment, food, games, shopping--what more can a girl want?! It is a lively event--and I mean full of life! It was the first day of the Faire (the day after Mrs. Harajdova and I arrived in LA) so it wasn't fully revved up yet, but I think both Jiri and his mom enjoyed and appreciated the event. And the weather was beautiful!

Actors--FUN-ny! Penitent prayers: "Always do good, and never do bad. Always treat your neighbor as someone who lives close to you..."

The Puritans--egging her on!

Me and my exchange partner.

Hidden talent

And he got a bull's eye!

My Mom!

Me and the moms hanging out in the most comfortable chairs ever. I swear, the minute I have a decent place to hang one, I am buying one--or two!

Put both feet up, Mom. Relax!

THE RELUCTANT PHOTOGRAPHEES =)

The Jousting competition. =)

God save the Queen!

I see some of the same actors here every year, including our beloved Queen Elizabeth I.

I also love these little details. They are the funny little things that make it all come together. The smallest things count for so much. Nice day. Way to kick off the trip!

KM

Wine Tasting in Chomutov

2006-04-18T17:21:00.000-07:00

The whole group

"So I went to the White House--again; and I met the President of the United States--again..."

My third wine tasting trip in CZ. And I will do it again, if I get the chance! It is fun. This time, it was a group of teachers from Gymnazium, AND it was the night before I was to fly off to LA for 9 days. We took a bus (a private one) from school to Chomutov-- nearby town, and enjoyed a private tasting in the area's only wine cellar ( I believe). This is not a grape-growing area, so the grapes--no, no the wine--is brought here for aging and bottling. I think that is right.

You know how you hear things and you swear you will remember them? And then you don't remember them--even when you aren't drinking a few glasses of wine (which, of course, in this case I was). But then you never learn to make arrangements for keeping all the information straight? Yeah...anyway. I am pretty sure that I am right about the info here. That's my story and I am sticking to it. I am not a journalist. =) This is personal experience. Yep.

Irena

It was kind of cold in the wine cellar. Can you tell??

Alena

"Learning" about the wine

Nice bits of decor around, and it did not go unnoticed by ME! =)

Crest

Iron man

The painting. Very cool.

I don't even remember what time I got home, but I taught school the next morning at 8 and managed to make my flight to LA, so all is well in the land of Ky. =)

Jan Mach and East Bohemia

2006-04-18T11:01:00.000-07:00

Jan Mach is a Czech Fulbright candidate for next year. He invited me to come to visit him and his family for a weekend after reading my blog (passed to him by the Fulbright Commission in Prague, I presume). I thought it would be interesting to see next year's crop of exchange teachers and visit a new part of CZ, and it was!

He lives in a small village in East Bohemia, very close to the Polish Border. During the weekend, we managed to see many local sights. We started with Hradec Kralove, where he and Marketa (his wife) met me at the train station. Lovely town. We also saw Nachod, Hronov, some natural rock formations and Kudowa Zdroj, a spa town in Poland. Whew! Quite a lot for two days.

HRADEC KRALOVE

GRANDMOTHER'S COTTAGE

In danger of flooding starting the day I arrived in East Bohemia. The river is reeeaally close behind it and had overflowed to the yard. The water made it to the wall of the house but not inside, luckily. There were a lot of floods throughout the country at that time.

Simon--seven years old, and already Joe Cool.

NACHOD

View of castle from town square

View of town square from castle

Clock tower

Tower and countryside

Castle

BUNKERS

There are a lot of these built near borders. Apparently the Czechs were prepared to defend themselves from German(?) invaders, but there was ultimately no fight afterall. I forget the reasons exactly.

Dinner with neighbors (friends).

ADRSPACH ROCKS!

With the river

Native American

Little Simon

Marketa

Jan, Marketa, Simon, and Nella--the Machs at the lake.

The frozen lake, just beginning to thaw out.

KUDOWA ZDROJ, POLAND

Tasting the waters--Nothing as grand as Karlovy Vary, but nice in its own way.

Bone Church in KZ, similar to the display in Kutna Hora, CZ (which I have seen in photos).

Human bone display. We couldn't take out own pictures in here, but Jan Mach found some pictures on the internet and sent them to me. Trippy, isn't it? Perhaps a bit...morbid? It's normal here, apparently.

Teacher's Day--March 28

2006-04-18T10:43:00.000-07:00

Alena and Principal Rebicek

I am not entirely sure what the day is. A celebration of teachers? Official? I think we have something like it on the calendar in the US. I seem to recall getting some little presents in my mailbox at Birmingham... Anyway, all the teachers of Gymnazium--and some former teachers as well--got together for a dinner at a pub. It was a nice chance to be all together at the same time. It is a rare occasion at school because everyone has different schedules, and even when most people are there, they are working, so no time for gathering.

Me

Irena

Maria etc.

Hello Honza

Spring???

2006-04-05T09:28:00.000-07:00

I have never looked forward to Spring so much before in my life. I have been watching the trees closely, looking for changes. So I am now seeing all these little buds on the bare branches, and I am filled with anticipation.

I even see some sprouting like this one. A very little bit though. I was hoping to see something drastic before I left for LA, but seeing as my departure is two days away, I may have to be content with seeing the progress that will have been made while I was in California. Oh, well. Whatever must be, must be. =) I guess!!!!

BTW it was very cold today. What's up with that?! =)

KM

Planes

2006-04-04T13:38:00.000-07:00

So...this was the plane I flew in on my trips from Prague to Bratislava. You should have seen my face the first time I realized it was MY plane. This plane has propellers!!! PROPELLERS!!!! Oh my god. But, I have, of course, gotten over the shock. I am sure I will be in similar planes many more times before I leave. I want to go to some nearby countries, and a 1 hour flight is so much more appealing to me than an 8+ hour bus or train ride--ANY DAY!

Banska Bystrica

2006-04-04T12:46:00.000-07:00

Front:Mike and Susan, Srdjan, Kate; Middle: Marc, Michael (Birthday Boy), Charles, Michael from Presov; Top: ME! =)

All of us gathered in Banska Bystrica for Michael's birthday bash. It was a goooooood time. So nice to see everyone, meet some new people and just hang. I got to see another part of Slovakia--my second weekend in a row in the country. I flew into Blava and took a train for over three hours to Banska, so I saw a lot of the passing country. Yep. It was a nice ride. I was with Charles, Marc, Emma, and Calla (2.5 years old) whom I met at the train station in Bratislava. Talk about planes, trains and automobiles!

The main square in Banska. The main squares in towns are often very pretty--the nicest part of the town, even. This one is no exception.

Cheese!

I said we came for a birthday. This is from the actual party. It's a little fuzzy, but I like the light.

Ditto.

A LOVELY AND DELICIOUS VEGETARIAN FEAST!

Church tower. I think it was a church.

Definitely a church!

The cemetery occupied some prime property. Up on a hill. Nice views of the city.

This house was...different. You can't not notice it!! =) It made me happy, though, to see that SOMEBODY was willing to do something different, to stand out.

We all went to the station to see Srdjan off.

Going, going, gone. Train tracks fascinate me. I think of all the places they can lead to, all the journeys past and future. All the possibilities. =)

Bratislava

2006-03-27T09:57:00.000-08:00

(To the tune of the California Drinking Song)

"So we had a little party down in Blava
There was Michael, there was Srdjan, there was Charles
Well, we had a little party down in Blava
And we had to..."

What the heck is witty and rhymes with Charles??!! This song is not working. I could rhyme with "Chuck," but I don't like to use that language in public (very often) and I don't think Charles likes being called "Chuck." Ok. Gutter mind showing; there are other words that rhyme with "Chuck," like luck and puck, duck... Hmmm... anyway, how about Charlie? Rhyme: gnarly, farly (is that a word?), barley? We had a lot of drinks that come from barley????

"Well we had a little party down in Blava
And imbibed a lot of drinks that come from barley!"

Hey!

Oh, nevermind! You get the idea. You will remember these guys from The Fulbright conference in Velke Bilovice. We talked about a visit while we were still there, and I really wanted to go and see them again ( I liked them so much), so I went down to Bratislava for St. Patrick's Day weekend. FANTASTIC time.

First Joke: "We can show you around Bratislava. It'll take about 10 minutes." Hehehehe. And it was nothing but fun form first moment to last. Laughs, laughs, laughs. It was casual, comfortable, mellow, pleasant, yet interesting and full at the same time.

I have to admit that I went there to see the people, not the place (well, I like seeing new places, but...in this case it was 90% people, 10% place. Hmmmm...) yet it was nice to see some of Bratislava in the process. Between the three guys, I felt really taken care of. This is a relatively new thing for me. I quite liked it.

So, heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeere's Blava:

Presidential Palace. The president doesn't live there, but oh well. It's a lovely building.

Hangin'

First dinner--a yummy Indian meal. I love Indian food! FLAVOR!! Yeah! Michael from Presov came through town with his girlfriend. We got a nice group together. Michael, btw, is funny as hell! The whole gang is funny, in that way that clever, sharp people are. Niiiiice.

UFO--the actual name of this structure built above a bridge in the middle of town. Very cool, architecturally, but alas! When we tried to go there, we found that it was closed (perhaps permanently??) due to technical problems. =(

Bratislava Castle. So many of the towns I have seen here are built around and/or below some kind of huge castle structure. A visual reminder of the social and political hierarchy, I guess. I have been to a few since I've been living here, but I don't do VERY MUCH interior exploration. It's fine with me. I can't say I am intensely interested. I like the buildings, and I can see them very well from the outside. After the places I saw (and loved) in England (as well as what I have seen in CZ), I can say I don't need to go inside any more castles. I could see some more exteriors though.

I think I am attaching my feelings about museums to castles now. Hmmm. Maybe I need to explore these feelings a bit more later. LATER. =)

Me and Michael at castle

National theater. I saw this building quite a few times. =) It's on the main square-- a lovely, open, pleasant square.

Also on the main square is this--US Embassy!! The first time it was pointed out to me, I looked at a different building--completely missing the big US flag hanging out in front of this one! I am sooooo intelligent. Hahahaha.

Van Gogh--creative approach to dilapidation. The problem with old buildings and old cities, is that...well...they're old. And everything old is NOT charming. Sometimes, it is just...old. And old things tend to get run down if they are not well-maintained. I take pictures of the things I find beautiful or interesting, so I leave many other things out. But this building, although it is old and run down, has been made interesting because in all of the (missing) windows along a SIZEABLE wall, there are paintings (perhaps all by Van Gogh). So despite, its crumbling nature, this is a very cool building. Good idea too!

Passageways--part of the charm of Europe, a sense of mystery, adventure, secrets...

Me and Charles between dances. Went out dancing on our first night. Quite fun! "Looking for some Hot Stuff baby this evening...I need some Hot Stuff baby tonight..."

A very cool cafe. Decorated in a Devil motif. OK. I saw a few places decorated in this style around Blava. Is there a fixation?

Best thing, besides the creative decor, was the NACHOS we had--with Salsa!!! We were sooo pleased.

Hi Michael! I'll be right there!

Bye, boys. Thanks for a groovy time, and...uh...I'll see you next weekend!! =)

KM

The Magic Flute

2006-03-27T09:49:00.000-08:00

When I got a look at the theater schedule in Prague (during a visit to Peg, a Spring Fulbrighter), I was very excited and decided I would go see some operas. Mostly, I was interested in seeing Mozart, but a few other things caught my eye as well. When I arrived last summer, I saw that Don Giovanni was playing in Prague at THE theater for which Mozart originally wrote it be first performed. I thought that would be something special to see.

I don't normally go to operas (in Los Angeles), but I enjoy musical theater... and hey, why not?? When in Rome...

There were SOOOO MANY operas playing in Prague, so why miss the experience? Three of the six works I wanted to see were by Mozart, and you might have guessed that I like Mozart (if you read about my trip to Vienna). Anyway, my first successful venture was to see The Magic Flute, in The Estates Theater (yes, THE one he had in mind for Don Giovanni).

The "monster" and other things. A very creative piece of staging. I had never seen anything like it before. It was interesting the way they used it for entrances and exits, etc. Just the way they maneuvered the thing was interesting. I couldn't exactly ignore it, since it covered so much of the stage when it was down, but I also kept my eyes on it because I was curious to see what they would do with it next.

The stage. This is what was visible before the performance started-- we could only take photos when they performance was not in progress.

The seats --it was very difficult to take good pictures of the theater. It is a tight horse-shoe shape, and I do mean tight. In the last picture (of the stage) you can see just how close the two sides of the stage are to each other. Some may call it "intimate." We were pretty far up, which was not a problem because there is a screen showing translations of the text in both English and German at the very top of the stage area, and it was easily (and comfortably) visible from our seats. More on that in a bit.

The ceiling. Something I could get at least a halfway decent photo of. Well, it shows some of the beauty of the place, in any case. You can also get a sense of how high up we are. There were cushioned rails in front of our seats because we had to lean forward onto them in order to see the whole stage. That was a new thing for me. We HAD to lean. I wondered if people often fell asleep on those cushions. I don't know. Perhaps they are not that comfortable. I wondered, too, how the ladies in the old days with those big dresses got into those narrow rows.

So...The music was good, of course.

The theater was lovely. I was imagining Mozart himself conducting the orchestra for one of his operas...awesome. Um hmm.

But I have to say that this Opera was one of the strangest things I have ever seen!! The story wasn't just sad or depressing (as some operas are) or lame as (many things are) but it just made no sense! Elements of story were set up and never paid off. And the characters!! OMG. The motivation??? I was wondering if Mozart actually wrote the book (I learned that term from Robin--does it apply to Opera too??) for these shows or only the music????? At one point I was telling myself to stop reading the text and just listen to the music. "Just close your eyes, " I kept saying to myself. Did I listen? No! Of course not. I am too curious (or too nosy) and too hopeful that something might come out if it at the end to pay it all off. Man, I don't like being disappointed. =)

I am REALLY hoping that The Marriage of Figaro is better when I go to see that in JUNE!! THAT is the main one I want to see. It will be nice, too, to see it in Prague, where it was well received upon its very first performance (unlike in Vienna). Let's keep hope alive!!

KM

I'm adding links! Check 'em out.

2006-03-12T12:50:00.000-08:00

I am becoming a bit more technically inclined since I started doing this blog. I surprise myself sometimes. But...well, I guess if a person wants to do something badly enough, the person will figure out a way to do it!!

I have been messing around with html and all sorts of things! Every new thing I figure out brings a feeling of great triumph! I'm the King of the World!! I can do anything...with a little persistence and patience (NOT my strong suit). Nevermind that I have a nifty help menu to fall back on! =) I am surprised I can do it even WITH the help menu.

ANYWAY, I said all this to say:

CHECK OUT MY EXCHANGE PARTNER'S BLOG!! I have added a link for it, along with links for more information on some of the things I mention when I write (Franz Kafka, Marquis de SADE) . It's a bit like doing footnotes for a college paper--showing some source material. That's what it reminds me of anyway.

As you know (if you have read much of this blog before), I mention Jiri (my exchange partner) quite a lot. He does the same--OF COURSE! =) So we decided to add links to each other's blog on our sites. That way, anyone who is interested (and only reading one of the blogs) can go back and forth between them and get both sides of the EXCHANGE story, as it were. We hope some of you find this helpful, and as always, we hope to be INTERESTING.

Cheers.

KM

Winter Blues

2006-03-08T09:10:00.000-08:00

So, I have said how I am enduring the winter famously. I have said that although it is cold, it is not SOOOOO very bad. And while all that is true, I can also tell you that I have had just about enough of it. Last week, I was very unwell. Everyone thought I had the flu, but I know I did not. I just did not fell GOOD. I felt lousy actually: no energy, persistent headache, back aches, weak muscles. I felt terrible. I didn't go to work for four days!!! Some people say it could be the weather, and while I can entertain the notion that the weather may have been a possible contributor to my malaise, I also know it was far more to it than that. I can't get into it all here, but I know that I felt like shit, but now I feel better, so I am happy for that. I have so many plans now, and I don't want any illness (physical or psychological) to get in the way of them.

I am eagerly booking trips, and there are so many places I want to see, and there are so many cultures I want to get acquainted with that I cannot afford to spend many more weekends here in Zatec. I want to explore; I want to explode. I want more adventure. Stay posted. Stay tuned. I feel a burst coming on! Spring will be wonderful. Some say it will be here, all of a sudden, in two weeks. I honestly cannot wait! Being a California girl, I guess I need the sunshine. I love it. I love the effects of it. It is really a wonderful thing. Is vitamin K a mood elevator???? I don't know for sure, but it very well could be!

I feel a spurt of rambling coming on, so I will end now. For some reason, I feel the need to share that I am now listening to the Rolling Stones "You Can't Always Get What You Want." I am digging it.

KM

CZ WINS BRONZE IN ICE HOCKEY

2006-03-03T10:50:00.000-08:00

The day Katherine left, I went back to Prague for the weekend. Another new Prague for me. I had found a spa I wanted to try while walking with Kat, and I visited it on the Friday evening. I got my hair braided on Saturday, and met up with Peg, a new Fulbrighter, for dinner at Hot (my new favorite restaurant). On the way back to Peg's apartment and my hotel, we passed through Old Town Square and paused to soak in this special occasion. Giant screens were showing the Czech Hockey Team playing for a Bronze medal in the Olympics. It was freezing cold, and many people were out there, just standing transfixed.

National Pride

To me, these are the kind of moments one just has to enjoy in life, whether at home or abroad--but especially abroad. These are the kinds of things we never forget. CZ won, of course, so I am sure the fans felt rewarded for their dedication.

Team Spirit

I, however, was already thawed and cozy in Peg's SUPER apartment by the time that happened. When we left to walk me toward me hotel, we could tell that the game had ended, as we saw the people walking away from the direction of the square, but we couldn't tell who had won, as there was no celebration that we could hear and no indication of joy on the faces of the people. The next day, I had to ask people on the street to find out the results. Congratulations, CZ!!

-KM

Katherine II--Later that day...

2006-03-03T10:08:00.000-08:00

Marquis de Sade Cafe

We met up with Andrea from the Fulbright Commission Don Pedro and we later mosied (sp?) on over to the Marquis de Sade Cafe and Bar. Now, the Marquis de Sade was a straaaange fellow. If I am not mistaken, the word "sadism" comes from his name. Yeah, he was into some strange things done in the name of pleasure. That said, the following picture, albeit quite accidental, seems oddly appropriate...

I kind of like it.

And here he is looking as innocent as the day is long. Well, we all know that books cannot be judged by their covers, and looks can be deceiving, and...Any more cliches?????

Anyway, we didn't come here because we admire the Marquis, we came for the beer.

Hoegaarden--a big beer, and shhhhhh...not a Czech beer. Actually, to be fair, it is not the beer that is big (it measures the same as other beers here), but the glass. And it was a bit like lifting weights to drink sip after sip of this beer. But it IS delicious. Very light, very clean, very lemony. The first time I tried it was here with Andrea, and Kat had had it back in England, so we asked Andrea to bring us here. Um, so very good.

Kat

Andrea

Cheese!

Thanks, Belgium!

BACK IN ZATEC...

On Wednesday, we made pizza and guacamole at home for ourselves and the Harajdas. A very pleasant evening. Kat spoke some German, so she was able to talk a lot with Mrs. Harajdova. We had a good time, and Mr. Harajda was his usual joke-cracking self. Thursday was Kat's last night here. We wanted to play pool, but the place wasn't open, so we settled for darts instead. Fun fun.

Bye, Kat. Thanks for coming!

KM

Katherine came to vist!!!

2006-03-03T09:24:00.000-08:00

Kat, whom I met last year when she was on a Fulbright exchange in Los Angeles, flew down from the UK for a very welcome visit to CZ. It was her first time here, and I think we really made the most of the time we had!

The day after Kat arrived, we spent the day in Zatec, where she visited the school I work in. It is one of my long days when I have seven lessons from 8am 'til 4 pm. She tried to make conversation with the students and give them more practice conversing with a native speaker of English.

Then, that night, we ran off to Prague for a day and a half. Although I find it to be a different experience every time I go to Prague, it was reeeally nice to show the place off to someone else--especially a newbie. It makes ME appreciate the city in a new way and rediscover its beauty myself.

Old Town Square ...

We found a groovy restaurant on Wenceslas Square--and I do mean GROOVY. It was like something out of Austin Powers, only a lot more tasteful. And the food was gorgeous! I haven't seen such nice presentation for some time.

Lamb (Yum-my--I have already been back to try this again!)

Thai curry chicken. Love the bowl!

We spent most of the next day being very Jewish. We visited all the synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery. It was so fascinating. None of the synagogues were functioning synagogues, which really surprised me, for some reason. I don't know what I was expecting though. And the cemetery was, I believe, really just a collection of tombstones, not an actual cemetery. Well, it sits next to the Ceremonial Hall, in which bodies were prepared for burial (which suggests that it once WAS and actual cemetery), but the arrangement of the tombstones suggests that bodies were not buried to match the stones as they are arranged now. Somewhere on our self-guided tour, we read that Hitler had planned to create, in Prague, some kind of "museum of an extinct race." Maybe this was part of that warped idea. I say "planned" because the idea failed since he had killed all the people who could have been experts on any kind of successful JEWISH exhibits (not that any self-respecting Jew would have done such a thing anyway).

Jewish Ceremonial Hall

Old Jewish Cemetery...

I took so many pictures here. There was something about the place--and the stones-- that was just beautiful to me. Some of them are SOOOOO Old!! Some date back to the 1600's and even the 1200's I think.

The doors to Pinkas Synagogue--within the Old Jewish Cemetery grounds.

Inside the Pinkas Synagogue. I wasn't supposed to take this picture, but I realized it too late. It is an interesting altar though. It has the names of all the concentration camps around it. This synagogue pays tribute to the Czech Jews (mostly from Prague, if I remember correctly) who were killed in the camps. On the walls are far too many names to read. It still boggles the mind.

Also inside this synagogue is an exhibit of artwork done by the Jewish children from Prague who were detained in Terezin, a concentration camp that was here in CZ. I think this was my favorite, most moving, part of the day. The emotions conveyed in the artwork were so visceral.

Apparently Terezin was one of the nicer camps (if one can say such things about a concentration camp) because it was used as a PR site for the Nazis to "show the world" that the camps were NOT death camps, that the people held there were NOT being mistreated. So there were all kinds of social programs and art and theater programs. Many things to keep the prisoners busy and entertained. Maybe even more decent food. Of course, they were often sent from Terezin to some of the camps we have all heard about, like Auschwitz and Treblinka, where they were soon to perish. One step away from Hell is still to close. And prison is prison no matter how many flowers (or paintings) are put on the bars.

Old-New Synagogue

Hebrew clock: the hands run counterclockwise. =)

Kafka Cafe, outside.

Kafka Cafe, inside.

Praguers are very proud of Kafka today--even if he was made to feel like an outsider here all his life because he wasn't "Czech." That's what I read, anyway, and those are the themes (alienation, feeling like an outsider) that often crop up in his literature. He seems to have had a pretty good (and WILD!) life, relatively speaking, and since he died in 1924 (before the Nazis took over CZ), he was spared the fate of his sisters--of being herded, deported, and dying in death camps. Lucky him. He was buried in a Jewish cemetery in Prague, but I don't think it was the Old one.

Appropriately, the Kafka Cafe sits in the Jewish section of town, which made it a very convenient stop for us on our synagogue day.

Kafka Tea--I had to try the house specialty. It is black tea with orange juice, some other kind of juice, vodka and cinnamon sprinkles. Tasty! Like nothing I had EVER had before. =)

Spanish Synagogue--the most ornate of the synagogues. Apparently, many of the Jews here had come from Spain, and this building reminded me of some of the Muslim-influenced architecture of Spain that I saw last year in Granada and Cordoba.

Charles Bridge--it is a must see for a first-time visitor, perhaps even a 10th time visitor. =)

Statue--duh!

Dancing Building--I was told it was built to represent Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. It is cool-looking anyway. And I can picture Fred and Ginger here, sure. =)

At Don Pedro, a Columbian restaurant. Very near to the dancing building is this restaurant. It has large windows at street level (many places do not have street-level seating) that face the river, and the view is more than tolerable. We sat there for a long time, avoiding the cold.

Ondra and Bo turn 30!

2006-03-03T08:32:00.000-08:00

Time to grow up (I guess) for two of the three usual suspects...hmmmm. A big party to celebrate their coming of age. There was so much food and a whole lot of...hmph umm...beverages. It was quite cute to see the boys working to set things up for their guests. There was also a lot of music to choose from. There was some song about America that everyone (but me) knew and kept singing together. I preferred the AC/DC. Reminded me of some friends back home. Shook Me All Night Long: One of our favorites. =)

I think everyone had a good time, as you can see from the pictures.

Happy Birthday, Ondra!

Happy Birthday, Bo!

Me and Honza-- a nice looking boy when he isn't making strange faces, and a nice boy all the time--to me. =)

Martina and I were the only girls there for most of the time. Not a problem, really.

Boys, boys, boys

And...Boys!

Lubos and Jirka

Petr and Honza

With Radek and Lubos

A Slice of Vienna

2006-02-15T09:59:00.000-08:00

My traveling philosophy: When you have only a few days to spend in a new town, it is impossible to "see" everything. At most, all one can get is "a slice" of the place. While one can get additional slices during subsequent visits, it is futile to try and "get it all" in just a few days--and it is also, in my opinion, downright unenjoyable. I am not the type to rush myself around from point to point, trying to "get it all in." Blahgh! I want to have a nice experience in a place. I want to see what I see as I am having "my" experience. Beth, as it turns out, has similar views, so we traveled well together and got along famously. And we happily spent our first full day shopping. The street our hotel was on was (not coincidentally) the longest shopping street in Vienna. How pleasant! After that, we ventured into the center to see some of what the town is known for.

OK, I PROMISE not to fill every travel blog with moronic photos of my hotel rooms, but this was really something. Our room was ENORMOUS--especially for hotels in Europe! I have never seen such a room in a regular hotel in Europe (check out the room in Velke Bilovice). I was amazed. And even more surprisingly, the bathroom was gigantic too!

The room--success! Well, when we first arrived, they tried to give us a room with one bed. Not acceptable. So they tried to give us a room, with one box spring and two mattresses. We quietly declined.

"Don't you have anything with beds we can separate??"

So finally we got to our room. Huge, as you may already know. =) Much bigger than the other two. The floors were hardwood. It really reminded me of the "olden golden days" when people went on those glorious and glamorous EUROPEAN TOURS. It was something in the STYLE of the place that gave me the impression. Truly lovely--and not so expensive (but maybe because of the season). Hotels.com can work!

Coming to pick us up

In the carriage--totally touristy, I know, but it fed my imagination. And of course you know what I was imagining...the times when this was the normal mode of transport. Oh boy. We passed the house where Mozart gave his first concert at five years of age. We passed Beethoven's house too.

As you may be becoming aware of, music (not strictly history) was our main interest in Vienna. We bought tickets to see a concert of Mozart and Strauss, with a little Beethoven and Hayden thrown in for seasoning. And while the music WAS outstanding, we were a little disappointed in the venue. It was cute and had lovely decor, but we were really hoping for a place like this....

The Kursalon (where they DO have a daily Strauss concert)

OR THIS...

The Opera house

AND WHAT WE GOT WAS THIS...

Music school

But it was really OK. We weren't exactly dressed for something fancy, and we had no time to go back to our hotel to change. And, as I said, the music was really beautifully performed.

We took a tour of the Mozarthaus. Excellent audio guide. Very fascinating stuff, most of which I am SURE I have already forgotten. =)

Mozart Bust

We stopped in the Mozarthaus cafe for a chocolate which ended up being a beer. They have their own labels for the beer. A Mozarthaus beer!

And the best thing about the cafe...

My favorite sign! I want to put it on a T-Shirt!!!!

So that was my slice of Vienna. I plan to have at least one more this coming summer. (I didn't even see that big yellow building that is ALWAYS shown as the symbol of Vienna. Yes, I know what it is called, but I don't remember how to spell it. And I want to finish NOW so I can get ready to go to Prague and pick up Katherine from the airport. A visitor. Yay!) Hope you enjoyed.

Velke Bilovice--Fulbright Conference

2006-02-15T09:36:00.000-08:00

Hotel

It was once again time to convene the Fulbrighters. Time for sharing experiences and plans, and also time for meeting new arrivals. This time, the group consisted of the Fulbrighters form both the Czech Republic and Slovakia. What a great idea! It was soooooo nice to see and meet our compatriots in Slovakia. We got along so well; it was as if we had known each other for years--okay maybe months. =) The point is, it was a great conference. I met some very interesting people, and I wouldn't be surprised if we were to meet up again and again as time goes by and the Fulbright experience continues to shape our lives in some unexpected ways.

Anyway, each participant gave a presentation of about 15 minutes. Teachers reflected and shared his/her experiences in their towns, and the scholars talked about their research projects. New arrivals talked about what they hoped to achieve during their term of lecturing, studying, etc. It was a good time. Very interesting to hear what everyone was up to. I had read about each grantee and his/her work before, but it wasn't quite the same as seeing each Fulbrighter present (with audiovisuals) the work each was personally involved in. It was a very stimulating few days.

room

Meeting place

OK, enough of these pictures. Just wanted to give you sense of the place we inhabited. We were in the very South of the Czech Republic. A place conducive to bring the Czechs and Slovaks together. The town, Velke Bilovice, is typical small town. Lovely and quiet.

The most important thing is of course the people...

Beth and Drew, during one of our "deep" discussions during the break.

Boys...

and Girls--out on the town.

Since Velke Bilovice is in Moravia, we, of course, had to try some of the wines that the region is known for producing; just as when in Bohemia (where I live) one has to try the beers!

Winery--actually started (and owned) by the Knights Templar, during the Holy Crusades!!

Barrels

Buying wine--I took four bottles, but not one made it back to Zatec--and I was glad not to have to carry them! Two made it to Vienna, and that was far enough! AND when I got home, I found that the same wines are actually sold in my little local market!! =)

* * * *

We also visited a castle (manor house, or large mansion in the US). It was really a special treat because these castles are usually closed in the winter time. I think they opened especially for us. I am told that the name for this one--Lednice--means freezer, and I can surely attest to the appropriateness of that name. We trekked through the snow to get to the house, and at first it was fun, but then we really were anxious to get inside so we could warm up. Yeah...Not warmer inside. While the place was undeniably beautiful (even when the gardens were covered with snow, I could tell that they were something special to see in the Spring or Summer), as we toured the house, I became increasingly concerned about things such as how long one would have to be freezing cold before frostbite started to set in. I was SURE it was possible for me to lose a couple of fingers--or at least a couple of toes!! =)

Lednice

Garden

Armor man. OK, you can't ell form the photo, but this is a full-sized man. A small, shortish type man, but full-sized, nonetheless.

Dining room

Staircase

The Gates of Heaven! This is greenhouse that we saw from the outside, before we entered the house. We passed it as we shivered and admired some really stately and gorgeous rooms, and then finally...ADMITTANCE!!!! Oh my god! It was so wonderful. I never wanted to leave.

Fuzzy bench. When I first entered the house, my very cold camera's lens got fogged up. For a minute, I couldn't understand why my pictures were not clear and the light was so funky, then...ahhh! Of course. I did like this picture though--even with the foggy lens! Super effect-- and completely serendipitous.

Pond--after I have cleaned the steam from my lens. =)

Greenhouse benches

Back out there??!! NO WAY!!! Why? Why? Why? Of course we had to go eventually, so I stopped my whining and survived it just fine. Of course =)

KM

I am currently out of the office

2006-02-10T14:30:00.000-08:00

So, I am in Vienna right now, so no new posts (really) until I come home. Things to look forward to:

Year 4 Ball: my second Maturity ples of the year
Velke Bilovice: Fulobright conference in an interesting border town, making new friends...
Vienna!! I am having a slice of Vienna these few days. Impossible to see it all, and that is okay with me. It is groovy; I will tell you about what I did.

AND OF COURSE...Photos, photos, photos!!!!

Be back with you soon!

KM

Year 4 Ball

2006-02-10T14:29:00.000-08:00

Year 4
This was the second ball, for the other group of kids who are finishing school this year. Attending my second ball here started me to thinking. Well, I started thinking about what I could say about this ball that might be meaningful. Something that I didn't say when I wrote about the first, something beyond mere description.

Table decoration

Well, it was also (like the first) a beautiful affair. Anyone could tell that a lot of thought and effort went into the planning of the night. For starters, the kids dressed in Medieval and Renaissance costumes and performed a typical dance. It was cool. The club was a lot more crowded than the other ball, due to the fact that the class is much larger and the families, etc. had to be accommodated in the same amount of space as was used by a much smaller class. So it was much more difficult to maneuver quickly through the place. Consequently, I didn't get as many photos of the events of the evening. But I really enjoyed the students, and took several pictures of the following kind.

Eva, Iva, Radka, and Katka.

Daniel

Standa

Liba

Tomas--trying to smile =)

Kuba

Vit

Crazy Boys--Pavel and Ondra

Well, as I said above, I thought this might be a good opportunity to say something about my experiences here beyond descriptions of what I did and where and with whom. I wanted to perhaps start to convey some of my personal observations. This led me to thinking about some of the small differences in the two cultures (the one I am living in and learning about and the one I was born into--and am also still learning about). =)

Student events here are family events. It's nice. Everyone (underclassmen, alumni, parents) can share in the significant moments. An occasion in the students' lives is an occasion for everyone. It is very different from the Prom in the USA. Parents there are also very involved, but their involvement is beforehand. There is much excitement and ado about getting the kids ready for Prom and also much celebrating before the parents send the kids off.

In the USA, the best parents are considered to be those who give their kids strength and courage to go and pursue their individual goals (not entirely on their own, but largely determined by individual will). Here, it seems that the best parents seem to be those who keep a place ready for their children to be with them forever, feeling strength and security mainly from being with the family.

Students in the USA would DIE if they had to spend the Prom with their parents. But Why?? I don't pretend to have all the answers, but I think there is an unrealistic expectation fo innocence that kids in the USA have to deal with. Between the law ("for their own good") and parents, kids have to pretend that they don't do things that are not sanctioned by adults, things such as drinking, smoking, and carrying on with members of the opposite sex. So the last thing they want to do on Prom night when they want to have FUN is have their parents watching over them. They get enough of that from their teachers, who also don't allow drinking, smoking, or "inappropriate" behavior in public, even though they know the kids DO these things. The kids must do these things in private.

Here in CZ, everyone also knows that the kids do these things, but nobody tries to pretend that they are not going on. If the kids drink or smoke, they can do so openly; the parents seem more accepting of whatever it is the kids do. So there is no reason for the kids to want to be away from their parents for their special occasions. After all, the most important thing is that everyone stays together.

I could probably say more, but I think this just about covers the main things that occurred to me during these events. Ta ta for now.

KM

Oktava Ball

2006-01-31T11:59:00.000-08:00

When the students here are in their final year of school, they have a celebratory ball. It is similar to our Prom in the USA, except that the parents are included, as well as several underclassmen and alumni. It is a very nice social affair. Oh, another difference is that there is drinking allowed, since people are allowed to drink alcohol here at the age of 18 and start, without penalty, well before that. My favorite part of the ball was the music. It was a far cry from the hip hop bump and grind music of our proms, and the dancing followed suit. Here, there was what I consider REAL dancing. Waltzes, Polkas, etc. The boys were so gallant. They came to the adults--even us teachers-- and politely asked us to dance with them. They even bowed! It was amazing.

Each lady was given a rose upon entering the ball. Students waited at the door to pass them out to us as we came in.

Dancing and talking with students. This is Jakub, a very nice boy.

Alena is the class teacher for Oktava class, meaning she has been their point person, supervising their progress at Gymnazium for eight years--from the year they entered the school. She was very pleased with how everything turned out, and here she is having a good time on the dance floor!

Here is Jana. She is a student who graduated maybe two years ago now. Maybe one? She was happy to return for this year's ball. You will remember her from a previous blog, a former student of my exchange partner.

Alena and Majda

This was something I had heard of but found surprising nonetheless. When the students are each called by name to be...I don't know what you call it...to be recognized and have that ribbon put around them, the parents and friends, etc., throw coins at them on the dance floor! I could not stop laughing every time it happened. Mostly I was laughing at myself and how it startled me--every time! It made such a racket and I wondered if it was somehow dangerous. Fistfulls of coins flung at them from every direction--and the girls in high-heeled shoes! But the kids enjoyed it, I think. Here they are picking up the coins afterward. I hear they collect the money and use it to buy something nice for themselves--or maybe a night at the pub. =)

The graduating Oktava class, their class teacher, and the principal.

The Alps!

2006-01-30T10:27:00.000-08:00

Ready to go. My first time in the Alps. I don't really know what to expect. The main images in my head come from Frankenstein, The Sound of Music, and the one time I flew over them on my way to Rome. But, coming from Los Angeles, I know that movies are not real life. Anyway, my curiosity is piqued.

I had this opportunity to go skiing in Italy for five days, thanks to my exchange partner. So, after getting clearance from my school, off I went! I was excited to go, but also experienceing some trepidation. I hadn't skied in I don't know how many years. 12? 15? I don't know. I was also concerned because my exchange partner had shown me webcam photos of Passo Tonale, and he was practically kissing the computer screen he loved it so much. I wasn't so impressed by the pictures, and I wondered how I would tell him if I didn't find the place as appealing as he. No worries! The place was incredibly beautiful; I was instantly awestruck. Those photos didn't do the place justice, and probably neither will mine, but here they are.

I am there. OK, I am starting with me. I am very happy to see (and like) the place finally.

Vermiglio. This is the actual town we stayed in. It was a trip for about 40 Czech students who are studying to become teachers and their current teachers. A house was rented here to accommodate the big group, and a few of us stayed in a nearby apartment. This is the view from the apartment balcony.

Goofing around. After skiing during the day, we all would come back to the house for dinner and mulling about (drinking, cards, chatting, etc.).

Honza (Even secret agents take vacations!)

Ondra (NEVER on vacation from his cell phone!)

Mr. Harajda comes along on these trips to help with the food service. It takes a professional to feed so many people at once.

Passo Tonale. The town itself! Very cute--oh, I believe the word is quaint. =) It must be quite an experience to stay here and go right from one's door to the ski slopes and vice versa.

The bus that brought the students from Pilsen and from the house to the slopes every day.

BEAUTIFUL! GORGEOUS! WISH YOU WERE HERE!

Going up!

I don't like these kinds of lifts, so I refused to go up there.

Ondra--a decent photo because he didn't see me in time to make a face!

Fik--deep in thought, apparently. =)

"Pub" PontiDi Legno-- a nice warm place to take a rest and have a groovy refreshment...

Chocolate! So think it was like eating pudding! Yum-MY!

Going up in Ponti di Legno

Wow!

SNOW!! For the last two days of the trip, it snowed practically non-stop. I came home with all my bones in tact, so I can say it was a successful trip.

THANK YOU!

2006-01-22T06:14:00.000-08:00

Thanks to all who have posted comments or written me emails about my blog. I can't say it enough. It REALLY does encourage and motivate me to write more!! I am especially grateful for the feed back about the Culture Shock entry. Thank you, mom, David A., David G., Brittney, Karla, and Brett!

Welcome to Winter--for reeeaall...

2006-01-13T08:17:00.000-08:00

Ancient Music by Ezra Pound

Winter is icummen in,
Lhude sing Goddamm.
Raineth drop and staineth slop,
And how the wind doth ramm!
Sing: Goddamm.

Skiddeth bus and sloppeth us,
An ague hath my ham.
Freezeth river, turneth liver,
Damn you, sing: Goddamm.

Goddamm, Goddamm, 'tis why I am, Goddamm,
So 'gainst the winter's balm.

Sing goddamm, damm, sing Goddamm.
Sing goddamm, sing goddamm, DAMM.

A parody of the Anglo-Saxon poem, Cuckoo Song

OK, so Ezra Pound was a little crazy. Alright--a lot crazy. If you have heard of him, you know this was actually true. If you had never heard of him, you know now. =) Some also consider him the father of American Poetry. Hmmm.

I included this little ditty here because the first line of the poem popped into my head when I began to think of doing a blog entry about the arrival of winter. Unlike the speaker of the poem, I feel no need to rage against the winter. I must say that for my first ever REAL winter (remember I am from Sunny Southern California), it hasn't been bad at all. It gets cold, yes. But so what? I quite like it. I think it's very beautiful--when the snow is fresh and covering everything, BEFORE it gets brown, black, and slushy et al. And the cool air sometimes feels really good on my skin.

Now I know I CAN actually live very happily in a place that has a real winter. I used to see the pictures on the news depicting those awful North American winters--in New England and the North, and I thought, "NEVER!" I still think it's impossible for me; now I understand why the Pilgrims had such a hard time adapting from Europe to North America. If you are from New England or the North, you will probably look at these photos and think it's no big deal, just a tiny bit of snow. If you are from LA, well, you may be thinking something completely different. =) The very first picture, by the way, is the INSIDE of my front door!

But, the climate here, in CZ, is considered mild, compared to the rest of Europe (not in comparison to LA, of course), and I have found the seasons quite livable. And the snow is very enjoyable--especially since I don't have to go out every morning. =) The sun is out today, and it is spectacular. It is still cold, and believe me I do notice the cold. But I hope no one thinks I am complaining when I mention it; I am not.

The Gymnazium. This is the school I work in. I was leaving after my afternoon lessons one day and took this photo. This is around 3:45 pm, and yes it will soon be dark. That is maybe the one downside of winter--the short days.

Dark mornings, too. Nearly 8 am in this one. The snow is great though.

I am seeing some beautiful things in a way I have never done before. I liked the light on this building.

I have to admit that, although I plan to go out walking more, I do often end up staying in the house (where I am cozy and toasty) instead of getting and about in the snow and cold. Maybe I will improve that when I return from the Alps. Oh! I am leaving tonight for the Italian Alps and five days of skiing. It's been many years since I have been on a pair of skiis. Wish me luck!

KM

I AM BACK!!

2006-01-07T20:53:00.000-08:00

TRYING TO RECOVER

Actually, I have been back in the Czech Republic since January 2nd. That was Monday. It is now Sunday morning, VERY EARLY, and my body clock is still going haywire! I have only been sleeping a few hours at a time, waking up in the wee hours of the morning--except for yesterday, of course, when I slept away most of the day instead of going to the grocery store and cleaning the apartment (and my clothes) as I had planned! Still not eating as I should, but I plan to remedy THAT pronto!

HOW IT WENT IN GENERAL: RANDOMLY!! =)

I had a great time at home, but much to my own surprise, I did NOT take very many photos! I can't believe myself sometimes. For the first several days, I kept forgetting to even take my camera out of the bag it was packed in. I am used to carrying it around in my pocket here, so I didn't even think of the camera until I was ready to take a picture, and then, of course, I didn't have it.

Other than getting there, I didn't plan much of my trip home ahead of time. I just went with the flow, played it by ear, etc. I didn't even tell most of my people I was coming. As a result, almost everybody was surprised to see me. Pleasantly surprised, I might add. It was nice.

MEXICO
I saw my exchange partner, Jiri, quite a bit during my stay. It was a good time. I suggested a little bit of sightseeing for us since the first time we were together in LA it was pretty much all about business (School district, car business, insurance, paperwork, getting around, etc.). He suggested we go to Mexico--just over the border for the day. I was up for it. I hadn't been to TJ (Tijuana) in 19 years, and I was curious to see it again. Boy had it changed! Either that or my memory was really faulty. I didn't remember anything being on the US side of the border except a giant parking lot--an unattended lot at that! I seem to recall having to put money for parking into numbered slots in a huge metal box, which would be checked by somebody at some point later. Now the border looks like one giant sprawl where two towns and two countries blend together almost seamlessly. The US side was one big outlet mall!

We went down a little bit later than we had planned because I always want exactly what I want and nothing else will do, so we had to check about 3-4 restaurants to get me what I wanted for breakfast. And then I only ate half of it--maybe less! Jiri is VERY patient, I have to say.

We walked around TJ, ended up in Rosarito Beach, suddenly in the dark, tired, and starving. We ended up camping out there (in a hotel--Princess doesn't sleep on the beach with horse poo) overnight, as there was NO way we were going to make the journey back to TJ in the dark, cross the border on foot, and then drive 2 1/2 hours back to LA. It was quite an adventure, I have to say--and completely unplanned, as I suppose most "adventures" are. =)

It was a good idea of his, and it actually turned out to be the highlight of my trip home. I love to travel (understatement of the year) so a trip-within-a-trip was a extra pleasant surprise. Kudos, Jirka!

AND THE REST

It was really good to see ALL the people that I saw. Sorry to those of you that I missed! If I didn't see you, please don't take it personally. Remember, everything was at random, as I said above.

Christmas with the family was nice. GOOD FOOD! Laughs, Football, Basketball. It was great. (I guess I will be watching more sports when I go home; I now know I miss them.) I got to see some new family members (recent wedding) and discovered that there are a bunch who are about to move away, so I found out I will have to start visiting Texas in order to see them again anytime soon.

New Year's Eve was mellow, but also fab. Spent a glorious day shopping and taking care of last minute business. Didn't do everything as I wanted, but I was very satisfied with what I DID manage to do. Left a bit of a mess in my cousin's place (all my trash--that is, empty shopping bags); already apologized. She said she didn't mind, so a BIG THANK YOU for putting me up and putting up with me, Combe!

Spent the evening with friends (Carye, Hugh, Jiri, Denisa, Honey, and Adelka). Take out from Buca di Beppo--niiice. Watched TV, played games...pleasant evening. I just realized I DO have a picture! (Thanks, Denisa!) Maybe I will put it here!

Me and Jiri 12/31/05

Well, that was about it. The next day I left LA for CZ. Although I was glad to come back, it was still kind of sad to leave LA. It was like something out of a novel or movie; it even started to rain, which only contributed to the dismal atmosphere. Now I am here. Home in Zatec. It has taken me a little time to get back on track (with the blog), but I hope to be writing more, both on and off of the blog. Hope somebody besides me finds it interesting.

Cheers, and Happy New Year to all. May 2006 be the best year ever!! To New adventures and Fantastic Firsts!!

KM

Culture Shock--the real story =)

2005-12-06T11:08:00.000-08:00

So, I have been in the Czech Republic for almost four months, and I believe I have a few words to say about the phenomenon called Culture Shock...

The first thing I have to say is that it came as a total surprise. I had heard and read about it, but I NEVER thought in a million years that any of it would REALLY affect ME.

I love leaving my home, have done it many times, plan to continue doing so, and despite missing certain people and things, I never really get homesick. In fact, I travel with the idea that I can really live anywhere--happily (with certain pre-conditions met, of course). I explore new places with questions in the back of my mind: does this place suit me as well has my home town? Better? Could I relocate here? How would I like living here?

So how could I possibly experience culture shock? Thatś not for me, right? Wrong!

I first want to say that culture shock has nothing to do with liking or disliking a place. It has to do with feeling like an idiot. It has to do with not knowing how to do things--simple things--that one can do with his/her eyes closed at home. It has to do with feeling that the things that should be easy are now difficult again. It has to do with feeling like a child, with feeling the loss of hard-earned independence (terrible for an American). It has to do with sometimes feeling that "simple" things are too difficult to even try.

Some of this is just perception, not reality, but it is felt nonetheless. And it makes me tired sometimes. Cranky sometimes. More emotional. There is a constant stress that I am usually not even aware of until the crankiness comes, or the listlessness, or the tears---seemingly out of the blue at times. It seems crazy to have stress and not be aware of it. But it is true. I have some feelings I cannot articulate, feelings I am not able to talk about or describe...These things can also happen at home, but it feels different when in another place.

I like being in the Czech Republic. I am happy to be here. There are so many wonderful, wonderful people who do a lot to help me and make things easier for me every day. I feel glad to know them and lucky too. Even when things are difficult, I wouldn't trade this year for anything. And, let me be clear--MOST of the time, it is fantastic, and I am fine. I am really enjoying my time here. I love my town, and I know I will want to return to it many times after this year is over.

I have to think about this some more. I don't know if I am making any sense or being specific enough.

I will be going home in two days. Spur of the Moment decision (a few weeks ago). I am glad I am going, and I look forward to it, but I still say I am not homesick. A part of me really wants to stay here at the same time that I am happy to go to LA. I already feel that this is sort of my home too, and I feel myself being pulled in two directions at once. It's not a bad thing though.

As, I said above, I have to think about this topic some more. I will revisit it in a later blog entry. I am already getting some ideas, but my bed is calling me now. Keep reading.

--KM

Thanksgiving--Prague

2005-12-01T15:15:00.000-08:00

On the Sunday after Thanksgiving, some of the Fulbrighters got together for a Thanksgiving meal. We met in Revnice, at the home of Hanka Ripkova. It was about a 40-minute ride on the train to the outer regions of Prague. The area was really pretty. It reminded me of some small mountain/country towns in the US. Unfortunately I didn't take photos outside. =( I was too cold or something. =) I wasn't cooperating with myself.

View from Andrea's. I stayed with Andrea for the weekend, and THIS is a view from her enormous terrace!

Snowy view. It snowed off and on during the time in Prague. I liked it better when it snowed. I was warmer, and it was pretty.

Cute boys! A wonderful family with four great kids, two of them born right here in Prague--one seven years ago, and one five weeks ago. Amazing!

Admiring the wine! Totally unaware of me =)

Darling girl. Five year olds are the best!

It was a good time, overall. The people were smart and interesting. Doing interesting things, leading interesting lives--lots of good travel stories. Some of these people have spent so much time abroad. Many have spent SIGNIFICANT amounts of time in several countries. And they aren't done yet. It was amazing and admirable. No better way to learn about the world than getting out there in it--and I am not talking about a vacation.

Thanksgiving--Zatec

2005-12-01T15:12:00.000-08:00

My students had their first Thanksgiving party ever. I didn't really know what to expect, but I thought it was worth a try. The food was good, and I think they enjoyed it. They told me they had never had a party with so much food. And it was a lot, more than the pictures show. These are the classes that will finish Gymnazium this year. They said a little about what they were Thankful for--also a new experince, I think.

Year 4

Oktava. Vojta was so much nicer when he had two broken arms!

I really like this picture! The light and the bread...

Znojmo

2005-12-01T14:46:00.000-08:00

I had a looong weekend (4 days) beginning after school on November 16th, so I took the opportunity to visit Beth, Pamela, and Gina in Znojmo. Znojmo is in the southern part of the Czech Republic, near the Austrian border. I hear it's only about a 90 minute bus-ride away from Vienna. I was happy to see the girls, as usual, and to see another part of the country.

The bus trip to Znojmo was from Hell!!!! [So was the trip home, btw. To keep a long story short: I tried to be smart and buy a return ticket early, but was trumped by snow, a bus no-show, and hours' delay, but there--again--was Ondra to save me=)] I have been used to getting on the bus and buying my ticket from the driver. But while I was waiting at the station in Prague, I noticed that many people already had a ticket in hand. I figured I should buy one, but I was told that the bus was already full. No tickets, and NO further explanation. But I was determined to get there on the Wednesday night. It was Beth's birthday, AND I didn't want to have to go back to Zatec and start over the next day. I found out (NOT from a station EMPLOYEE!) that I could buy a ticket to stand up on the bus. Yikes, but anything to get me there. It was supposed to be a three-hour trip. It was a four and a half hour trip. In the end, I couldn't take it anymore. I sat on the floor. Not fun, but I made it. Yay for me! Although I was starving, I was actually glad that I didn't eat or drink before I left because the one saving grace of the bus ride was that I didn't have to go to the restroom! =)

It's not knowing how to complete simple transactions like buying a bus ticket that creates personal stress for someone in a new environment. It's an easy thing that makes one feel foolish for not knowing to do it--or HOW to do it. It hadn't occurred to me to even try because as I said, on the bus trips I had taken before, I always bought the ticket from the driver, which I did this time as well--eventually. This strategy worked fine getting me from Zatec to Prague, but afterward...

Part of the problem, I realize is that it was a holiday, and a lot of people were going home from Prague to be with their families. (Many people here work in Prague and commute to their home towns on either a daily or weekly basis.) However, I still wouldn't know how to buy a ticket from Prague to another city in CZ (or out of it) from here in Zatec! The only bus stops I have seen here are unmanned. These are the things I must figure out I guess. Perhaps I can buy it online and pick it up at the station in Prague?? Who knows?

Anyway, the actual visit was grand! The day after I arrived, we all went on a wine tasting tour in the Znojmo area. Apparently this area is known for its wines. And there were some pretty good ones too! If I could remember what they are! =) I have a paper that lists them, but I thought we were in one winery when we were really in another, so some of the ratings are a bit mixed up!

Tree carving at our first winery. I don't really know what it is, but I liked the way it looked. Kind of like a mushroom.

Me and Gina on the bus. The bus took us from winery to winery, as they are in pretty close proximity, but not centrally located.

Wine and cheese. This was the best! We got to sit down here, AND we had cheese! Lots of cheese!

In a cellar. Every time I entered a cellar, I was thinking "Cask of Amontillado," minus the dead bodies, of course.

"FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, MONTRESSOR!"
"Yes, for the love of God."

OK, random literary quote, unless you know Poe, are one of my former students, or are a current Kvarta student. =) No walled up niches here that I could see!

Chink! Na zdravi

Znojmo tower

First snow! These pictures are not bad considering I took them through the bus window while we were moving. =)

Snow too! We were on our way to Brno, the second largest city in CZ, for some shopping...

A GOOOOD day of shopping!! Hmmm, all I saw of Brno was the bus station, the mall across the street, and the bus station again. I was so excited to find clothes I liked that actually fit me--even pants! I will just say that the pants I normally see here are not cut for women who have more to them than skin and bones. (And I am noticing more and more that not all the Czech people are so skinny, so what's up?) Normally no accommodations for things like...hips. thighs, bottoms--the things that women are made of! So I was very happy to be able to buy--not one, but--THREE pairs of pants! And they weren't the biggest ones in the store!!

Now, I am not anywhere near fat, so it's a little disheartening when I spend hours shopping and can fit only the biggest pants in the store (Levi's store in Prague) or none at all (every other store I went to in Prague and in Brno until I struck gold). Now I LOVE Peek & Cloppenburg (the goldmine). I could even buy JEANS there! Some Euro jeans with the big cuff that I never even liked until I found a pair and could fit them. I tried them on only because they came in my size, and now I think they're cute!

Demokracie! It was interesting to see this graffiti on the wall in Znojmo. Now I have seen a lot of graffiti in CZ--A LOT, but when I arrived in Znojmo, I was told by a Czech man with excellent English that Znojmo was the seat of Communism in CZ. A real stronghold. Many people there, I hear, still think it would be preferable to current government/politics/ economy in CZ. He was explaining the poor condition of some of the buildings, which are slowly being privatized and then renovated. If you know me, you know I was fascinated because I LOVE renovation!! OK, maybe I don't do it myself (since I don't OWN anything), but I love to see things being improved. =)

Znojmo is 2-3 times bigger than my town, and something that I found very interesting when we were tasting the wines was that underneath Znojmo, there are a network of tunnels!! Many wine cellars connect to these tunnels, and they go all the way to Austria--or maybe just to the border??? They (the winery people) said people used them for some kind of escape...from Nazis?? Communists?? Both?? Could one escape Nazis by going to Austria??? Probably not. Hmmm. I was "tasting" a LOT of wine--so sorry for the sketchy details. Use your imagination. HAHA.

ANYWAY, the cool thing was that in the warmer seasons, there are some kind of walking tours we can take through these tunnels. I am SO up for that! I just hope there is nothing that will be crawling on me! That could be a deal-breaker.

=) KM

Fulbright Commission Visit--A very good day!

2005-12-01T10:35:00.000-08:00

On November, 11th, three representatives of the Fulbright Commission in Prague came to visit me in Zatec. It was a Friday, and I teach only 90 minutes on Fridays. So the group visited the end of my lesson, and then we spent some time talking at school while Jakub talked to the students. Then we all went to the town hall to meet the Mayor of Zatec, Jiri Farkota. He talked about the different projects going on around the town and various town government relationships. Very Interesting. After he asked where I lived, he also said they would repave my street--eventually. =)

Pictured here are Gymnazium Assistant Principal, Alena Zimmermanova; Director of the Prague Fulbright Commission, Hanka Ripkova; Gymnazium Principal, Miroslav Rebicek; Me=); Gymnazium English Teacher and Former Fulbrighter, Alena Brozovska; and Andrea Semancova, of the Fulbright Commission. Jakub Tesar (of the Fulbright Commission) was also in Zatec on this day, but at the time of this photo, he was busy giving a presentation to the Gymnazium students about opportunities to study in the United States.

This photo made it into the local newspaper. The article was in Czech, of course, so I couldn't read it for myself, but it was nice anyway. =) And I have a copy of the article (thanks Irena), which I may be able to translate one day. But don't hold your breath!

The Seasons Change

2005-11-13T09:37:00.000-08:00

So when October ended, it was like a curtain dropped--literally. It was a different world. And the weather reflected it! We still are having a surprisingly nice day here and there, but then there are these days when the fog is omnipresent--and I do mean morning, noon, and night. The air is chilling--or "crisp," as some like to say. So far, it's not SO bad, and it's not SO cold (I keep hearing it will be much worse), but it's a motivation killer. When I look out the window and see fog everywhere, I just have a hard time getting pumped to go outside to do...well, anything. I do go out, but I have to do better. What will I do when it gets REALLY cold?? I can't stay in the house all winter! Or. . . CAN I????????? Just kidding. I WILL get out despite the weather. I am hatching travel plans even as I write. You will see. =)

Remember my beautiful tree??? November in Czech is a word (Listopad) that means "falling leaves" and boy did they nail that one on the head. It is as if they ALL came down on cue. There are NO leaves on the deciduous trees in my back yard-- all of a sudden, it seems. Hmmmm.

Day of the Dead--Nov 2

2005-11-13T08:45:00.000-08:00

With Mr. and Mrs. Harajda, I visited the graves of the family of my exchange partner. The cemetery was beautiful with all the candles and flowers. It was aglow. The night was foggy and we got rather cold by the end of it all, but it was worth the experience for me. I guess it is also worth it for the Czech people. It really is, I think, a lovely thing to remember those who have come before.

These photos are a bit blurry, but they show a little bit of how splendid the place was.

A lot of care is taken to keep the graves of the family clean of leaves and other debris. Almost all the graves are actually made quite beautiful. I wasn't sure if it was just for this time of the year or if it was something that people do all year long (the cleaning of the graves, I mean). I didn't ask SO many questions because I didn't want to be disrespectful.

This holiday is a bit like the Day of the Dead in Latin America, except far more somber. The Latinos really celebrate with a major party--the whole night sometimes--but probably they wouldn't if they had the same weather we have here in CZ. Here, it was not so much a party, but a resigned acceptance of the inevitable. Fine. But the "resigned" part kind of doesn't sit right with me. It's kind of like, we are just passing time while we wait for it. No, I prefer the Dylan Thomas approach...

Do not go gentle into that good night,
Old age should burn and rave at close of day;
Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
Though wise men at their end know dark is right,
Because their words had forked no lightning they
Do not go gentle into that good night.

Good men, the last wave by, crying how bright
Their frail deeds might have danced in a green bay,
Rage, rage against the dying of the light.

Wild men who caught and sang the sun in flight,
And learn, too late, they grieved it on its way,
Do not go gentle into that good night.

Grave men, near death, who see with blinding sight
Blind eyes could blaze like meteors and be gay,
Rage, rage against the dying of the light.

And you, my father, there on the sad height,
Curse, bless me now with your fierce tears, I pray.
Do not go gentle into that good night.
Rage, rage against the dying of the light.

Am I in Heaven? Or am I in Heaven??

2005-11-08T11:59:00.000-08:00

Yes, folks, this is WIMBLEDON! I am honored and privileged to be but a small part of the Wimbledon tradition. A very small part, I'd say! But oh WOW! We got the tour, and --even at this time of the year when Wimbledon is NOT at its most glamorous--it was the grooviest thing ever!

Speaks for itself, I think.

These are tennis courts, folks. It is amazing how you walk into Wimbledon--or I should say, The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club--and you are IN. Immediately there are the outer courts. You can be SO VERY close to the action! I couldn't even imagine it with crowds of people. I don't know how they do it.

What would Wimbledon BE without clouds??? In traditional fashion, it was threatening rain, with some actual sprinkles, while we were there having our tour. Quite funny.

Fred Perry--the last Englishman to win Wimbledon, back in 1936. That's what I call a drought! No pun intended. =)

Center Court??

Court 1??

Sorry, folks, but I can't really tell from the photos which court is which. It was a strange thing to me to see the courts without the lines, nets, players, etc. It's not really a court at all; it's a lawn! Center Court and Court 1 are only used for The Championships, so they have been growing this grass since last summer! There is an electric fence around the lawn to keep out the foxes. (Low voltage, don't worry.) Although there was evidence of their having been there, there were no foxes in sight today.

Here is our faithful guide, though. She is a stockbroker by day and a London tour guide by weekend. Fantastic! She had to study two years and pass exams to have this weekend job. The course trained her to be a tourguide for everything in London. She does Wimbledon because she is a big tennis fan. A girl after my own heart!

I'm ready for my interview, Mr. Demille!

So this is THE desk where the players sit for their post-match interviews. When I sat down for this photo--I mean, "interview"-- our guide (who QUITE captured my heart here) said, "look, it's Venus Williams." How happy was I? Pleased as punch! If you know me, you can't escape knowing that she is my ABSOLUTE favorite player--and reigning Wimbledon Ladies Champion! I was thrilled to be there!

Me at Wimbledon! This is NOT the greatest picture of me, but it's me at Wimbledon, so it made the blog! Brilliant day!

The Theatre!

2005-11-08T11:42:00.000-08:00

So, after much anticipation and a love-affair with the song, "The Music of the Night," I finally got to see The Phantom of the Opera! Maurice was such a sport to go with me when he'd already seen it a bunch of times! I still regret that I had the chance to see it in Los Angeles during its EXTREMELY long run with Michael Crawford as the Phantom, and yet I never got around to going. LAME! But...seeing it in London is not a bad make-up. It's been running here for 19 years! As long as Maurice and I have been friends! I just realized the coincidence. =)

I think "The Music of the Night" has got to be one of the most beautiful songs ever--on its own, even if one never saw the show. It is a special song for me, one that I will always love, I think. It just came on (as it is on my current iTunes playlist) as a matter of fact.

I don't want to be a theater critic here, so I will simply say that I DID like the show. I had no idea of the actual storyline or anything, so it was all fresh to me. I rented the movie tonight and will probably watch it tomorrow. Just to compare and remember. =) It was a really special experience. Thanks Maurice!

London--Hampton Court Palace

2005-11-08T10:20:00.000-08:00

Despite the photos (and the postcards Mom, Annie, Grandmother), this was not the most beautiful palace ever, BUT, it was entirely fascinating for its history and the prominent figures who made use of the place. Henry VIII, Elizabeth I (my favorite) handled some of their business here, and it was A TRIP to walk through the place myself! I went with my friend Maurice, and although we had the audio tour, we couldn't be bothered to actually listen to it. It was enough to just see it and imagine our own scenarios. I can see that I am having less and less patience as time passes...

Clock courtyard.

So the story was that this part of the Palace was added (after tearing down an older part) by William and Mary to copy the style of the French palaces like Versailles. So this part is very different to the other parts of the palace. This place is HUGE, by the way!

Henry VIII. OK, some might consider him a bit of a bastard for imprisoning and beheading (and divorcing?) his wives when he wanted to trade them in for a new one--and produce a male heir. HOW DARE THEY have...daughters!! But, having the advantaged perspective of centuries and not being subject to his authority, I can kind of admire him for his drive and determination. Church doesn't allow divorce? Invent a new church! Invent a new policy toward marriage! I love it. No silly tradition would stand in his way. That's vision. Just glad I wasn't one of his more unfortunate wives. But hey, they got to be Queen for a while. That has to count for something. Right??? I really don't see what the big deal was. He finally had a son, but he didn't last too long, and his DAUGHTERS became the monarchs anyway...so what was all the fuss about? Elizabeth did a fantastic job!

In the brick (alcove). Just chillin' between walks through the various parts of the castle.

At the Royal Tennis Courts. I HAD to go and see this! It was a surprise though. It wasn't tennis courts that are royal; it was the courts of Royal Tennis! A game on a court that looks nothing like the tennis I know and love. I can't even explain it. Just know it is DIFFERENT! I even saw people playing. And I CAN tell you that they play off of walls and things, kind of like racquetball, and squash (So I am told. I've never seen squash).

Now we are getting to the really incredible and interesting part of the palace:the kitchens. I love cooking--I mean, eating! I love EATING! Especially when I don't have to cook! This place was really cool!

Maurice and the "oven." Just to give you some perspective on how large this cooking place was, Maurice is standing in front of the fireplace. And this isn't the only one in the kitchen. I think I heard there were eight. Makes me wonder how much sweat was included in the menu. It had to be some kind of inferno!

Kitchen pots. So this kitchen was some addition made by Henry VIII after he took over the palace from his buddy, who fell out of favor and probably lost his head for it. (I'm pretty sure he did.) So Henry had to have kitchens that could prepare food for a LOT of people when he was holding court there. A minimum of 600 people (and often MANY more!) had to be fed twice a day. They had to eat in shifts and it was an enormous and complicated undertaking.

Peacock! Apparently you ARE what you eat. Or WHO you are reflects WHAT you eat. And vice versa. Anybody who was anybody was eating a diet of Boar-Venison-Swan-Peacock. And people of status wouldn't be caught dead eating things like... vegetable soup (Or something that wasn't B-V-S-P). That was for peasants! I hear they ate a diet of 75% meat and 3-4 times the calories we eat today! Per day!

More kitchen

Maurice again and work station. Another shutterbug. And a kindred spirit. =) Remember, Maurice, I never promised you you wouldn't be on the blog. In fact, I refused to make any promise of that sort.

Another cooking station

Food sample. Fake food, of course, but...I heard that 40 times per year, they actually do a cooking demonstration here, using the actual kitchen, methods, and menu of Henry VIII's kitchen! Maurice said he read my mind when I heard this: I was thinking, "What?! I have to see this! Do they let you eat the food?? When will it be?? I have to come back!!" I was fascinated, thrilled, awed, intrigued. Hmmm.

The tree! A peculiar looking tree. I fancied it full of peacocks' nests. But I really don't know what those round things are...

The river. Of course the palace has river-access, and boat launches. This was a nice view of the river area. We were about out of juice here and ready to go back to town and head for the theatre!

London--HAPPY DAY!!

2005-11-05T09:24:00.000-08:00

Here I am, outside the exit of the Globe Theater. This was only a pass-through, while we were waiting to board the London Eye. I was rather excited nevertheless. We came back the next day for the actual tour. Maybe we COULD have had a tour this day, but Pamela and I completely missed the entrance, walked all the way around the theater to the exit and went in there. Then we stopped at Starbucks! Starbucks is another beautiful thing about London. I could get my favorite hot chocolate. We then decided we should head on back to the EYE.

This is actually a recreation of Shakespeare's Globe, not very far from the site of the original Globe. It's as exact a copy as they could do with modern safety requirements, and the like. Completely FASCINATING! The tour was great. Just the way I like them--short and to the point. Not too much yakety-yak about every little detail. Perfect!

Those of you who know me will know that I kind of like Shakespeare. So this was a special treat for me...

The gate is a work of art! They employed some incredible number of smiths (or something) to contribute to this gate. It's pretty nifty.

But when we got inside...

After Notting Hill, we were so tired that the first exciting thing we found was a sofa in the ladies' restroom. We were loathe to leave it. I had considered USING the restroom, but I never made it past the sofa. We had to really consider...should we go and see the exhibit before the tour?? Yeah, I guess we should. So off we went!

Then, and I am almost ashamed to admit it, but Beth and I both felt the same way...there were WAY too many things to read in the exhibit! We had no interest in that! There were walls of words!!! No way! And yes, I am an English teacher! What could they really tell us that we wouldn't already know anyway?? We wanted VISUALS!!

This was a start!

This was a model of the theater "auditorium." Good thing I took this picture, because it was impossible to get this shot inside the real theater from our vantage points.

Neat!!

I like these kinds of things. Shows the creativity and importance of Shakespeare (whoever he was).

I liked this poster simply because I use that phrase a lot and there it was, with a picture of Shakespeare. Since I didn't read anything, I have to guess that this is about the identity question of Shakespeare. Hmm. Bacon, DeVere, James I? Maybe. Who cares? The play's the thing! (The plays are...the thing).

So here we were enjoying what we could see of the exhibit, and I noticed the groovy ceiling panels...so who was lying down on the floor, in the middle of the big exhibit room taking pictures of the ceiling? Yes, your truly. And I am not sorry! =)

Earth and moon...far out!

David, our guide, had a lovely accent, I must say. I don't love all the British accents, but his was nice.

The stage!

Stage ceiling, with its depiction of all 12 zodiac signs.

Scales! And I am not just taking this picture because it is my sign. Some of my FAVORITE people are also Libras...OK, there has to be at least one I could name! Somewhere out there. =)

The tour doesn't take people ON stage, so this was as close as I could get to my theater debut. =)

The view FROM the Globe is as good as the view OF the Globe, I dare say.

I Love London!!

2005-11-03T12:35:00.000-08:00

The dragons mark the boundaries of the City of London. Not all of what we non-English think of as London belongs to The City proper. With the passage of time, London has grown into a large and fantastic place. A picture of London should be in the dictionary next to "city." Just walk around it, and you can feel it's energy. The buzz! I love Los Angeles, but it's not a city the way London is. LA's energy is spread far and wide; London's is compact, palpable. Part of it is that you don't have to be in a car here! You use public transportation and walk...and walk...and walk. Tiring, but well worth the effort! Now, I won't start using superlatives here--I haven't been to New York City--YET!--but I imagine it will be more similar to London than to LA. Wow!! I can't wait to see it!

Beautiful view!

We (Beth, Pamela, Gina, and I) stumbled upon this market street after meeting for lunch in Notting Hill. We were looking for a fortune teller--strictly for fun, folks--but we found other adventures instead...

I don't think I had ever seen beets in their natural state before, so, of course, I had to photograph it. I like the picture. =)

One of our biggest adventures! Lisa and Erin would be happy to know that restrooms can be found right on the street when needed. This one is completely automated. Drop in your coin, and the door slides open. You step in and feel a little bit as if you are about to be launched in a space ship, or maybe beamed up, (Scottie). When you are finished, you press a button to get out, and the stall cleans itself--completely. You can't even flush it for yourself. Amazing.

Pamela, Gina, and me. Remember them from Prague? This is our second European capital city, but not our last. They are fun, fun, fun.

Another lovely shot of London near the river (and the ubiquitous train), with the back of Beth (Pamela and Gina's mom) in the corner.

Beautiful! Gorgeous! Wish you were here!

Millennium Bridge, with St. Paul's in the background.

Millennium Bridge again. I found it quite fascinating.

No comment. Just liked it.

Hyde park. Had a walk through with Brett (a friend from grad school at Cal State LA; lives here with his wife, Bunny--a Brit)one morning (no picture of Brett, unfortunately), after Turkish food in Notting Hill. Lovely and serene. You'd never know you were in the middle of a bustling CITY.

Sidewalk plaque. Speaks for itself.

Prince Albert Memorial. Built by Queen Victoria (OK, she didn't do the work, but she ordered it) as a memorial to her late husband. That's what I call love--the story of Victoria and Albert. She lived for a good 40 years after he died and never stopped loving him. That's incredible. Theirs is probably one of the greatest love stories ever! True love does happen in this world. Hmmm. =)

London Eye. It has to be experienced once. It's just one of those things.

Beth and I ON the London Eye. Can you tell that we are tired? We were knackered, as my British friends say.

Crossing the street. I laughed at these more than once, but at the same time, I came to count on them to keep me from getting hit by a car as I walked and walked and walked through the London streets. You never know just where the cars will come from--especially if you are preoccupied with looking at all the splendid sights.

* * * *

Stay Tuned! More on London trip to come, but not tonight. Too tired.

Cultural Experience!

2005-10-23T10:46:00.000-07:00

Pivovar is the Czech word for brewery, and this is Zatec's very own! I found the experience VERY interesting. I was fascinated by the whole process, and I wondered, as I often do, who first thought of doing all these things to plants and water. How did they know what it would become? It's really amazing.

My little darlings!!!

Aren't they adorable???

I am posting this especially because Vit purposely closed his eyes during my photo!! And also pictured here is Tomas, our fearless leader, who took it upon himself to organize this trip after I merely mentioned wanting to do it one day in class. None of the kids had ever been, so... Way to go, Tomas!

This is Radek. I don't know his last name, but he is the Director of Sales and Marketing at Pivovar Zatec, and he conducted the tour of the brewery--in English! Bravo.

Hot beer in the boiling room!

Empty fermentation bed. This was a fascinating part of the tour, which was, in its entirety, pretty fascinating itself.

Fermenting beer. If you lean in close enough, you can get a burning nostril full of the CO2 that is being created by the yeast. I did! Whew!!

Assembly line--Sooooo Laverne and Shirley!!

The workers at the Pivovar gave gifts of beer to a few of my students. Did they say no, thank you, it's only 9 am?? Noooooo.

Tasting room- two fisted drinker

Her too!

Yes, I am drinking beer with my students again. I really didn't think we would do the tasting part because of the early hour, but I guess it's never to early for beer in Zatec.

We tasted TWO kinds of beer!! It's ok, we were all sharing the two mugs, so no one overdid it. =)

My Birthday =)

2005-10-23T10:01:00.000-07:00

So, last Tuesday was my birthday. I didn't have to work until almost 1 o'clock. That was nice. I had a quiet morning at home in which I read birthday emails from home, and I really missed my friends in LA. My mom sent me about five birthday cards (paper and electronic), and I finally had to call her and say it was enough. But it was nice...Grandmother and Annie also sent me very loving emails. I was glad to hear from them.

I went to work and the lessons were fine. Then the evening came...

I knew that some of the teachers were taking me to a birthday dinner, but they really made it special for me. Beautiful flowers and a really lovely silver bracelet! (Alena knows how I like silver.) A surprise!! Really, I was only expecting dinner--and I was happy about that. So, I was really honored that they made such an effort. We had a private room in a pub I hadn't patronized before. Good food! Several teachers showed up--even some who didn't speak English!! We had a wonderful time. Lots of laughing...

Me and Alena (a super lady)

Me and Irena (Ms. Personality) with our beloved cell phones

Sitting around the table...

Dasa and Majda having a serious chat--not! =)

Irena, Lenka, and me.

Alena (Assistant Principal), Majda, Me, Halina, and Mila.

The three M's--Majda, Mila, and Martin, a very friendly and funny guy. I just met him that night.

By the end of the night, I was reminded of a little song...

Make new friends
But keep the old
One is silver
And the other is gold

I was very happy for the opportunity to have met these new friends, even though I had been missing people in LA. This is a part of the experience, and one of the reasons I love to travel. I will have a special feeling for Zatec forever. I am at home here too. The people are fantastic, and they have been extraordinarily good to me. I am grateful and happy.

I AM IN LOVE!!!!!!!

2005-10-17T10:18:00.000-07:00

On Saturday, Mr. and Mrs. Harajda took me on a trip to Karlovy Vary. Wow, oh wooooowwwwwww. It was GORgeous! If I'd had the money (and the permission from the Czech Government) I would have bought an apartment there on the spot! We walked around there for hours, and I was continually amazed at the spectacle of beauty. It is very well kept. The buildings are in immaculate condition, everything is manicured--neat and trim! I had seen some postcards of Karlovy Vary before I went, and they were nice, but they did NOT do the place justice. I had wanted to come to Karlovy Vary because I am VERY interested in spa towns, but I really had no idea what I was going to find here. Nice to know the reality now. It reminded me a little of Sorrento, Italy; they have the same kind of energy, similar vibe. However, I didn't want to LIVE in Sorrento! I am SURE I will be back here again. Maybe some massage and mud??

In the beginning...

I took a bath in the morning, so I was really warm before we left Zatec. I dressed as if I were still in California: jeans, two tank tops, and--what was I THINKING??-- Sandals!! The sun was shining, or threatening to, so when I walked outside, I was really fine. Mrs. Harajda thought I was crazy, and she was right. I did carry my sweater and coat with me though. By the time we got to Karlovy Vary, I was starting to feel the actual temperature outside. YIKES! So...the first thing we had to do was go find me some socks with the toes in them so I could wear them with the sandals. We did! They saved my life, and the rest of the day was wonderful.

Sanatorium. Can be prescribed by a doctor for convalescence. Amazing.

Beautiful top of building. I starting imagining, as I often do. What if I...

I think I was about here when I first thought...If I could walk these streets every day, I would live my life as a happy camper. OK, maybe not every day; I still would have to travel, but this certainly wouldn't be the worst place to live.

Horse and buggy. How cute!! Takes the imagination back to what it must have been like back in the day when this was a major source of transportation. (And no Jiri, no Ondra, I was NOT born back then!!)

Lattice building. Nice old wooden building. Not quite sure what it was...some kind of spa house?

Charlie Chaplin. This was a surprise!

River and bridge-- another beautiful shot of the town.

My first taste! It is part of the Karlovy Vary experience to taste the water from the many springs that flow around town. It is mineral water and is supposed to be good for the digestive tract. They even sell special mugs? jugs? jars? cups? for the tasting. Mr. and Mrs. Harajda bought me the one I am drinking from here. A present! There is a definite mineral taste to the water...kind of salty, but not really salt. It's...interesting, and definitely worth the try. As I said, a part of the experience! I will do it again next time, every time.

At the spring with Mrs. Harajda. Here is one of the springs where you can fill a cup (jar? jug?). Many are in this same style, but each has a different temperature (and perhaps a different concentration of minerals??). Some fountains are in a completely different design too.

Look at the columns! Nice area.

With the geyser! This is a natural geyser, but enclosed in glass building. It's pretty awesome. The water is hot, and the room is warm. Mrs. Harajda and I were taking off and putting on our coats all day! Sunny area, shady area. Warm room, cool street...

The tower at the top. We took a funicular up the mountain and had a lovely lunch at the restaurant up there. Afterward, Mr. Harajda waited outside while Mrs. Harajda (Harajdova, I know) and I climbed to the top of this tower to see a view of the area.

View from the top. I am impressed by the wooded area around the town. There is SO much!! The nature blends nicely with the purpose and atmosphere of Karlovy Vary. I want to walk through the forest...amid the trees...

Hot water flow. Some of the natural hot water flows into the river here, leaving mineral deposits in its wake. Lovely! It's like something from prehistoric times (and no, boys, I wasn't born then either!).

Lovely old hotel. Hotel Romance?? haha

BGWYWH (Beautiful! Gorgeous! Wish you were here.)

There's something about a gazebo...

Mirrored Obelisk. THIS one wasn't stolen from Egypt! Niiiiice.

Saturday continues...

2005-10-11T02:50:00.000-07:00

After I returned to Zatec, I went out to see a soccer match with Irena, another colleague from Gymnazium. She was more fun than a barrel of monkeys! We tried some local specialties and the pub...a little beer, a little Becherovka, a little tlacenka--Boy did I LOVE it!! Becherovka is a liquor made in Karlovy Vary; Tlacenka is some kind of pork meat with onions and vinegar. A big hit with me!

I met Irena's father and husband. They were jolly people. Great to be with. Her father liked me very much, and was very dapper.

Irena was fun to talk to. She is very spirited and says what she thinks! It was the first time I had spent more than a few minutes talking with her, and I enjoyed it immensely. In fact, I will see her later today!

KM

Oh yeah, there WAS a soccer match going on too. I think the proper team won. I know the score was 4-1, and most people seemed happy, so...

I stopped paying attention for a minute, and when I looked up, the field was like this...

But I did notice this pretty tree. (I am such a girl sometimes!) We do have trees that change colors in LA, but not in the number they are in here. Practically a whole forest of them on the way to (and right around) Krivoklat.

Another brilliant Saturday

2005-10-11T02:27:00.000-07:00

On Saturday, Alena, Tomas, and I went to visit another castle. On the way, we stopped in a little town--Rakovik, I think--where we stumbled upon the makings of two Czech weddings! No photos, sorry. Anyway, the castle we visited was called Krivoklat. There was a festival going on there for the weekend. It, and it's surrounding area, was absolutely beautiful. I think this time I WILL let the pictures speak for themselves. I don't feel like explaining, or saying a lot, and besides, nothing I could say would add to the photos anyway. There was a tower tour, but it was in Czech, so...

Peace...out! Thank you, Alena. Thank you, Tomas.

My walk to work...

2005-10-11T02:11:00.000-07:00

A gorgeous tree--don't ask me what kind it is because I don't know. The colors are beautiful. What will it look like in Winter?? A skeleton? =(

If I walk for maybe three minutes and look back toward my house, this is what I see. It's not my house; it's a church, but my house is just behind it, sort of.

A house I pass on the way to work. I think it's a typical older style house around here. Not the nicest, but not the worst either.

A very pretty part of the street.

This building fascinates me. I wonder about the process of keeping old buildings in good repair. I love to see the progress they are making in renovating it. If you had seen it before...Let's just say that this is a very old town, and some parts really show their age!

Here is the other side of that same building, with much less work done to it. So you can see the lady without the makeup. =)

Sexta--Group two

2005-10-11T00:27:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by Travelinfool.

And here, a t last is the last group of students to photographed. Almost every class pretended they didn't want to take a picture--for a minute only-- and then they struck the group pose with almost no direction from me at all.

What can I say about my students? As you can see, they are beautiful. They are well-mannered. They are group-oriented. I do kind of miss the diversity and spirit of my kids back home, but I enjoy these students very much, and I find that kids everywhere behave basically the same way. Maybe I will address this more later. These kids will write to my students at home. They will have a chance to learn what each other are like (grammatically correct???).

Septima--Monday

2005-10-11T00:20:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by Travelinfool.

Here, as promised, is the other half of my Septima class. A piece of bread in my Septima sandwich! =)

These were the very first students I met in a class, and I was very impressed with them. They are super nice and well-behaved, like most of my classes. Cheerful and welcoming. Thanks!

And in Los Angeles...

2005-10-05T12:49:00.000-07:00

I had a little going-away lunch at my favorite restaurant, Oliva, in Sherman Oaks. About 45 of my friends from work, college, and just life-in general, showed up to wish me a Bon Voyage! I was soooo happy that day! And it showed. A good time was had by all. The company was the best; the food was great...I miss it!!!

Thanks to all of you who came out. Thank you for the lovely gifts as well. Sorry I didn't do a personal thank you to each of you as I should have, but things got a little hectic in those last days in LA. I am sure you understand. =)

Me, Jiri, and Denisa, Jiri's wife.

With Luigi!!!!!!

The Hardys, Marla, and my family.

My Aunt and Grandmother!

With Cecelia and Robin!

With Eva!

With Katrina!

Some of my favorite people from work!

The best of BHS!

While I'm backtracking...

2005-10-05T12:26:00.000-07:00

Let's go back to when this whole crazy adventure really got rolling--in one of my FAVORITE cities ever, Washington, DC. Except we weren't really in DC, we were in Alexandria, Virginia, but who's keeping track of details like that???? We are all one!!!

This is Jiri, my often-mentioned exchange partner, Andrea (from the Fulbright Commission in Prague), and me. Here, we (and some others, not pictured here) are starting to become "the Czech Group."

But we managed to meet other really cool people too. This is John. His wife went on exchange to India. He was very fun to talk to. Jiri and I sat with him for many meals. This was taken on our last night in DC.

And of course, "the Czech group" wouldn't go five days in DC without a trip to a pub!! I think this was only the second night though!

Happy Birthday, Radek!

2005-10-05T12:06:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by Travelinfool.

After spending the day with my students, I met up with the boys for this birthday party. Kind of reminds me of a "party" I attended in Costa Rica....

Me and a bunch of guys, sitting around a table drinking. Hmmm...

Rotating table of boys...

Tomas, can you see me??

Peter--cute but crazy!

How could I ever forget?? My very own secret agent--Honza! He's checking his super cell phone for his new missions--should he choose to accept them.

Me and Ondra, as usual. My hero. What would I do without him??

Yep, a LOT like Costa Rica, only there, I didn't realize what they meant by "party" before I was already in it. Aaaaannnd, it was hot, in the jungle--okay, it's no excuse, but I did proceed to get PLASTERED in CR! I had never and HAVE never again been sooooo drunk in my life. Luckily, I was with good people, as I usually am. People are pretty good all over the world.

Here, in CZ, I did manage NOT to get totally trashed on this night. Then I even went home when it was still dark outside, and WAY before the rest of them! Live and learn, I guess. SOMEBODY who was there didn't even wake up until 4pm the next day!

Hmmm...wonder who...